Sarabeth's

423 Amsterdam Ave., New York, NY - (212) 496-6280

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Posted By Michael Stern on 11/14/2004 5:14:00 AM

We are currently mad at Sarabeth's. A few months ago, she stopped making sticky buns. These were great sticky buns: good and sticky, with a full-flavored, yeasty oomph. When we whined about their absence to a waitress, she said we weren't the first to complain, and that if all of us who miss the sticky buns let Sarabeth know, perhaps they would reappear. (Sarabeth@tiac.net)

Even without the buns, this is one heck of a good place to have breakfast. The muffins are excellent and the orange apricot marmalade that gets served with them is spectacular. The pancakes, waffles, and French toast are exquisite (and exquisitely plated), made from the finest ingredients with real kitchen expertise.

We visited on the cusp of breakfast and lunch and watched some very lovely plates of the latter carried to tables: chicken pot pie, crusty salmon cakes, and a kaleidoscopic chopped salad with crispy polenta.

(Note: the original Sarabeth's is at 423 Amsterdam. The East Side spin-off is at 1295 Madison Ave., and there are branches at the Whitney Museum and at Chelsea Market.)

Scorecard

Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace

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"A close view of Goldie Lox, one of the Upper West Side's best breakfasts."
Michael Stern

"Goldie Lox: an inspired combination of fluffy scrambled eggs, dollops of soft cream cheese, and ribbons of tender smoked salmon. That's a corn muffin in the background and orange apricot jam and butter on the side."
Michael Stern

"Many people contend that Sarabeth's is the all-around best breakfast place in New York City."
Michael Stern