Your Guide to Authentic Regional Eats
Oliverio’s Cash & Carry is not a restaurant. It is a small neighborhood grocery store. It can be frustrating to the hungry roadfooder because the best things you can buy here are for taking home and cooking or eating with a sit-down meal. Sausage, for instance. In the back of the shop is a hand-cranked sausage machine tended by Angela and her brother John (daughter and son of Antoinette Oliverio, who began the business in the 1930s). The natural-casing Italian sausage they make from pork butts and seasoning two or three days a week is fresh and delicious; but unless you happen to stop in the store at a time when they’ve cooked some for themselves, and unless you are lucky enough to be befriended by them and offered a sandwich, you’ll need to buy it raw and find a place to cook it. The other great thing that’s a mess to eat in the car, but does travel well, is Angela’s cracked olive salad – a mélange of olives and peppery spices that is perfect as the garnish for homemade muffaletta sandwiches.
