Hicks'

305 S. State St., Clarksdale, MS - (662) 624-9887

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Posted By Michael Stern on 6/5/2008 9:34:00 AM

"I am sixty-one years old, and I made my first tamales at age 16," says Eugene Hicks when we ask him why the ones he makes are so especially good. Rich and with a hard kick of pepper spices, each one is hand-shucked; and they are available by threes, sixes, or twelves. A plate of three is served with chili and cheese and baked beans and Italian-seasoned cole slaw.

Tamales are what put Hicks' on the map, but there is a whole menu of ribs, rib tips, and chopped pork shoulder cooked over flaming hickory logs and topped with house-made sauce. In addition, there are Hicks-made pork sausages, fried catfish, and a fourteen-inch "Big Daddy" sandwich that is made with a combination of sliced barbecued pork and smoked turkey. The day we stopped in, a sign by the drive-up window advertised hog maws at $3.69 for a pint container.

Also, the day we stopped by, the dining room was closed. Hicks is actually a huge place, including a banquet/reception hall, but Mr. Hicks told us that two people had called in sick so he had closed the restaurant and was serving food only through the drive-up window. As it turns out, the dining room is closed most days when there is not a function taking place.

Scorecard

Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace

Tamales (6)	Hog Maws
Chopped Barbecue Sandwich

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"Delicious little pouches!"
TJ Schultz

"The corn shucks are well-packed enough that you can squeeze the tamales right out of one end, if you wish, using crackers to catch the luscious, meaty cornmeal that spills out."
Michael Stern

"In this region, pork shoulder tends to be served very finely chopped, liberally sauced, and dressed with sweet cole slaw. Hicks' sandwich is a great example."
Michael Stern

"Tamales are ubiquitous in this region. Many Clarksdale aficionados believe that Hicks' are the best."
Michael Stern

"Hog maws are pieces of pig stomach. Enough said?"
Michael Stern

"These tamales were spicy and yummy. "
Alice Thompson