White River Fish Market

1708 N. Sheridan, Tulsa, OK - (918) 835-1910

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Posted By Michael Stern on 12/9/2008 6:05:00 PM

A grateful tip of the hat to tiki and to Howard Baratz, who both recommended we stop at the White River Fish Market while traveling through Oklahoma. Howard described it at an "old-time Tulsa classic," in business since 1932. This well-worn combination raw fish market and semi-cafeteria style restaurant northeast of downtown is, in our opinion, a Roadfood gem.

What we mean by "semi-cafeteria style" is that when you enter, you step up to a counter where all sorts of raw fish are displayed. You place your order based not only on a posted menu, but on what you see in the case. Pay the man behind the cash register and find a seat at booth or table in the big, open dining room. Soon, your meal will be brought to the table by a member of the staff.

The choices are vast. Fried seafood is what the place is best known for: gorgeous whole flounders, catfish, perch, etc. The menu also lists broiled seafood, grilled seafood, a couple of seafood salads and a fish sandwich, boiled shrimp by the pound and raw oysters by the dozen. On Tuesdays and Wednesdays, one very meaty lobster tail is available for $19.95. All dinners include a couple of crusty, pepper-laced hushpuppies and a choice of such side dishes as onion rings (excellent!), pinto beans, cole slaw (sparkling!), spiced rice, and baked potato.

We started our meals with a cup of gumbo and a bowl of red beans and rice, the latter actually two dishes, one with soulful pinto beans, the other with sausage, beef, onions, and rice in a spicy Cajun sauce.

We love the room tone in this rollicking lunch room (open for dinner, too). It's clearly the place where all sorts of Tulsa citizens feel right at home. Prices are low, the fish is impeccable, and all the side dishes are very soulful. That's a combination that adds up to a necessary stop for anyone with an appetite traveling along I-44.

Scorecard

Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace

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"Fried whole flounder."
Smith

"Tuesday and Wednesday are lobster tail days. This big fella was unbelievably meaty, as dense and as full-flavored as a sirloin steak. Of course, melted butter comes on the side. With this dish, the hushpuppies were a rather odd companion, but nonetheless impossible not to eat."
Michael Stern

"Looking at this photo, I can practically hear the crunch these excellent hushpuppies make when you bite into them. Two are included with every dinner."
Michael Stern

"The beans come in their own separate dish when you order red beans and rice. Here, the rice part includes big hunks of sausage and beef, and some very well-spiced rice."
Michael Stern

"These crusty strips of catfish are accompanied by wicked-good sweet onion rings. The hushpuppies that are part of every dinner are barely visible in the background."
Michael Stern

"Here is the counter where you place your order. Note all the raw fish displayed in the case."
Michael Stern

"Just before lunch hour, there are still plenty of empty seats in the bright, airy dining room. By a little after noon, all were occupied."
Michael Stern

"While the 'ambience' of this restaurant is not something of which fussy epicures would approve, we knew we would feel right at home even as we approached the front door."
Michael Stern