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Wolfgang's

4 Park Ave., New York, NY - (212) 889-3369
Posted By Michael Stern on 1/26/2006 2:28:00 AM
$75 per person for lunch is not exactly typical Roadfood, but if your goal is to savor restaurants unique to their region, Wolfgang's steak house on Park Avenue in New York is essential. Opened by Wolfgang Wiener, former headwaiter at Peter Luger's in Brooklyn, this pricey place is an only-in-New York eating experience.

Peter Luger fans will recognize much of the menu: Porterhouse steaks for two or four people that arrive at the table already sliced, magnificent hash browns (here known as German potatoes), apple strudel for dessert. Wolfgang's menu is slightly broader than the Brooklyn antecedent. You can also get a sirloin or filet mignon, even swordfish or salmon, and a hot fudge sundae for dessert. But when we walked through the dining room to our table, we saw nothing but meat and potatoes on every table.

The place itself is striking. Like a mini Grand Central Oyster Bar, it has an elegant vaulted tile ceiling. Because the ceiling is low and tables are close together and the restaurant is frequented by extremely hearty carnivores who love to talk loud an laugh while they eat, the noise level is very high. We are not complaining. It is an extremely convivial environment in which to eat, drink, and be merry. On the other hand, Wolfgang's is the wrong destination for a romantic rendezvous, or even a focused business lunch.

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Scorecard

5 - Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
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Wolfgang's beautiful Porterhouse steak arrives at the table already sliced. The waiter distributes several slices to each diner with a special flourish: he slides the meat along the edge of the platter, which is so hot that you can hear it sizzle just before it is set before you. The meat is dry-aged on premises, and is in the elite class of New York's best.
"Wolfgang's beautiful Porterhouse steak arrives at the table already sliced. The waiter distributes several slices to each diner with a special flourish: he slides the meat along the edge of the platter, which is so hot that you can hear it sizzle just before it is set before you. The meat is dry-aged on premises, and is in the elite class of New York's best."
Michael Stern





The steaks are so rich, that it seems slightly crazy to start one's meal with a luxuriously fatty serving of bacon, but we could not resist just one slice. Listed on the menu as 'Canadian bacon,' this strip has slightly crisp edges and virtually melts on the tongue.
"The steaks are so rich, that it seems slightly crazy to start one's meal with a luxuriously fatty serving of bacon, but we could not resist just one slice. Listed on the menu as 'Canadian bacon,' this strip has slightly crisp edges and virtually melts on the tongue."
Michael Stern


Wolfgang's excellent bread basket includes crunchy salt sticks, French bread, and onion rolls.
"Wolfgang's excellent bread basket includes crunchy salt sticks, French bread, and onion rolls."
Michael Stern


The steak is in the background. Up front in this photo you see German potatoes on the left (we asked for ours extra-crisp) and spinach sauteed with olive oil and garlic on the right. The spinach is also available creamed or steamed.
"The steak is in the background. Up front in this photo you see German potatoes on the left (we asked for ours extra-crisp) and spinach sauteed with olive oil and garlic on the right. The spinach is also available creamed or steamed."
Michael Stern


Strudel, like all the desserts, is available with thick, pure 'shlag,' aka whipped cream. There was a heap of it at the back of this plate, but Jane already scooped into it to dollop a bunch onto the top of her espresso.
"Strudel, like all the desserts, is available with thick, pure 'shlag,' aka whipped cream. There was a heap of it at the back of this plate, but Jane already scooped into it to dollop a bunch onto the top of her espresso."
Michael Stern



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