Heaton's

619 Marion Rd., Princeton, KY - (270) 345-2052

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Posted By Michael Stern on 5/29/2006 4:43:00 AM

We'll admit to getting a slightly perverse, anti-snob pleasure from dining at a table opposite shelves of motor oil and other automotive necessities. While Heaton's does have a fairly normal restaurant area, it has been closed for a while, so all meals are served inside the adjacent gas station, which resembles a thousand other quick-stop, quick-eat mini-marts around rural America.

But here the cuisine is a cut above: real Kentucky barbecue, in this case pulled pork, is served in a sandwich, large or small, as a plate with two side dishes, by the pound and whole shoulder. It is hickory smoked, rugged-textured, and comes with an interesting sauce that is slightly sweet with a bright citrus flavor. We thought the meat had a mealy character; and while the taste was fine, it was not all that much fun to eat.

While we did not love Heaton's barbecue as much as others in the region –this part of Kentucky is a barbecue bonanza – we could never completely fault any restaurant that smokes its own and serves it in a service station.

Scorecard

Overall: One of the Best - Worth a Trip

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"Beans, slaw, bread, pickles and onions are the necessary side dishes for a pork plate in these parts. The pulled pork is soft; the sauce has a wild citrus zest."
Michael Stern

"Heaton's looks like a thousand other gas station convenience stores, but the barbecue inside is something special. Thanks to Nan Mosher for tipping us off to this fine local eatery."
Michael Stern

"Our friend Joe enjoys his barbecue sandwich at a table near the shelf of Valvoline."
Michael Stern

"Hand-painted signs almost always indicate something good to eat."
Michael Stern

"Heaton's barbecue is made the old-fashioned way, as evidenced by these stacks of hickory wood at the back of the parking area."
Michael Stern