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Iggy's of Narragansett

1157 Point Judith Rd., Narragansett, RI - (401) 783-5608
Posted By Michael Stern on 2/16/2008 11:35:00 PM
The doughboy is a wonderful item whose northeast cognates are the malasada or flipper, and which even resembles the scones of Utah, the sopaipillas of New Mexico and the beignets of New Orleans. It is a hot puff of fried dough served straight from the kettle after being blanketed all around with a thick coat of crunchy sugar. It is tender and just slightly chewy, like an airy doughnut but without the avoirdupois, and while it goes with any seafood, it is addictive all by itself.

Iggy's snail salad was just as good as the one served up in Warwick: a unique Ocean State passion that is super-garlicky and refreshing. We also enjoyed our Iggy Burger, which is a nice cheeseburger festooned with fried onions and peppers. On the other hand, we must say that an order of fried clams was atrocious: oily, brackish and an invitation to indigestion. We each ate one and quit, wondering if another red tide had interrupted the local clam supply. Apparently not, according to experts we asked. Maybe it was just a bad day for Iggy's clams. We'll try them again ... but with caution.

Note that this Iggy's hours are seasonal. The other one, on Oaklande Beach Avenue in Warwick, is open year-around.

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Scorecard

5 - Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
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Bet you can't eat just one. This is a single doughboy, plucked warm from the bag in which it was served. You can buy them by 6 or 12. Yes, they are nutritionally naughty: hot fried dough rolled in sugar, for heaven's sake, But any lifestyle that would disallow them is absolute evil.
"Bet you can't eat just one. This is a single doughboy, plucked warm from the bag in which it was served. You can buy them by 6 or 12. Yes, they are nutritionally naughty: hot fried dough rolled in sugar, for heaven's sake, But any lifestyle that would disallow them is absolute evil."
Michael Stern





Here is a picture looking down into a bag of a half-dozen doughboys, waiting to be devoured.
"Here is a picture looking down into a bag of a half-dozen doughboys, waiting to be devoured."
Michael Stern


A reminder of the strong Italian character of so much Rhode Island cooking, snail salad comes glistening with oil and is redolent of garlic.
"A reminder of the strong Italian character of so much Rhode Island cooking, snail salad comes glistening with oil and is redolent of garlic."
Michael Stern


There is a small indoor dining room, but on a nice day, there's no better place to enjoy Iggy's food than at an ocean-perfumed picnic table around the side.
"There is a small indoor dining room, but on a nice day, there's no better place to enjoy Iggy's food than at an ocean-perfumed picnic table around the side."
Michael Stern


We love restaurant signs that feature an anthropomorphized image of the specialty of the house. Here is Iggy's happy doughboy.
"We love restaurant signs that feature an anthropomorphized image of the specialty of the house. Here is Iggy's happy doughboy."
Michael Stern


We came across this happy branch of Iggy's on our way to the venerable Aunt Carrie's. They are a clam shell's throw apart on Route 108.
"We came across this happy branch of Iggy's on our way to the venerable Aunt Carrie's. They are a clam shell's throw apart on Route 108."
Michael Stern


We thought it might be nice to enjoy a pint of fried clams on the side of our meal. It was not nice. These clams had none of the ocean sweetness or fragility of great ones. We're hoping it was just a one-day blooper, because we really like most everything else at Iggy's.
"We thought it might be nice to enjoy a pint of fried clams on the side of our meal. It was not nice. These clams had none of the ocean sweetness or fragility of great ones. We're hoping it was just a one-day blooper, because we really like most everything else at Iggy's."
Michael Stern



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