Porthole

20 Custom House Wharf, Portland, ME - (207) 780-6533

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Posted By Michael Stern on 9/19/2007 4:31:00 PM

Nearly fifteen years ago, Portland's Elizabeth Peavey, author of "Maine and Me" and "Outta My Way" and regular columnist for www.thebollard.com, described The Porthole as "the real thing, untouched by trends." It has since changed hands and there is evidence of modern foodways on the menu, but for an excellent and authentic home-cooked breakfast on the waterfront, this old eat place (since 1929) is still the real deal.

In fact, we joined Elizabeth and her husband John for breakfast a few mornings ago as we were heading downeast to eat lobster and they were about to embark on an eating tour of Connecticut and New York. Yes, the menu included breakfast sandwiches on focaccia and wrapped in a tortilla, but there was no denying the excellence of the corned beef hash. It's a soft, almost creamy consistency with only a few crusty edges, rich with the flavor of garlic and onions blended into the beef along with tender nuggets of potato. Atop it were a couple of lovely poached eggs and bread of choice (I chose sourdough). Jane had blueberry pancakes, which were great (although Elizabeth, luckily, had gifted us with Maine maple syrup to use on them: none is served here).

We were smitten by the place itself with its creaky floors and seafoam green walls decorated with old posters and just the right amount of nautical bric-a-brac. It was a cold morning, but the deck outside, overlooking the water along Custom House Wharf, looked mighty inviting. Among available libations are ales brewed just yards away.

The Porthole is open every day for three meals. It features live-band reggae Sundays from 3pm to 7pm and a Friday night all-you-can-eat fish fry for $5.95. Peavey wrote that the latter was for those who "like to measure out your life with shovels rather than with coffee spoons."

Scorecard

Overall: One of the Best - Worth a Trip

Corned Beef Hash	Lobster Benedict
Blueberry Pancakes

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"Corned beef hash is served in a deep dish. It has a good briney kick laced with onions and garlic and cushioned by potatoes. The fragile poached eggs are a classic contrast. That's sourdough toast on top."
Michael Stern

"If you just have to have fresh lobster for breakfast, Porthole's lobster Benedict is a good choice. Not a regular menu item, it is a frequent special. The large-chunk, spuddy home fries are delicious, too."
Cliff Strutz

"Buttermilk pancakes are available plain or dotted with blueberries, raspberries or cranberries. If you are a maple syrup devotee, bring your own; the kitchen doesn't offer it."
Michael Stern

"A view from a table in back looking towards the front of The Porthole. That's the old bar on the left."
Michael Stern

"Of course, lobster is available for supper. This beautiful poster of one graces the Porthole's wall."
Michael Stern

"In warm weather, the choice seats at Porthole are outside with a view of the water."
Cliff Strutz

"Custom House Wharf is a wildly colorful old place, its buildings' walls listing this way and that, a raised sidewalk broadcasting the ancient sound of people clumping along sprung wood."
Michael Stern