Les Halles

15 John Street, New York, NY - (212) 285-8585

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Posted By Bill Homan on 9/18/2008 3:54:00 PM

I've been eating at Les Halles for over three years, and have eaten all across the U.S., and this one is still in my top ten; wonderful all the way around. Most people know of it because of Anthony Bourdain. He is the Executive Chef at their other location in NYC.

One particular evening, we started with the white bean and wild game soup. It is a rich, savory, creamy dish that contains boar, hare, carrots, and dill; very hearty and very delicious. My girlfriend had roasted cod with fried leeks and garlic mashed potatoes. This moist, flaky fish is pan-roasted and served on a bed of creamy, rich mashed potatoes infused with plenty of roasted garlic and topped off with a pile of crispy fried leeks, all in a flavorful pool of white onion sauce.

The hanger steak with frites is one of the best steaks I've ever had. Requested medium, it arrived with a good amount of pink in the center; very juicy, tender and just right. It is served with a red wine shallot sauce, good but completely unnecessary; this beef speaks for itself. The frites are the best I have ever had, bar none. Hot, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, and perfectly salted, and not at all greasy. I won't eat fries/frites anywhere else for weeks, lest I ruin the memory of these babies. The steak is also served with a side salad of mixed greens lightly dressed with a shallot vinaigrette; a perfect complement to this dish.

Other noteworthy dishes are the French onion soup, macaroni and cheese (with Gruyere), the mussels mariniere and the bitter chocolate mousse.

Scorecard

Overall: Won't Eat Again

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"Our friend loved this steak and raved about the frites."
Bill Homan

"Slow-cooked onions in a beef and red wine broth, buried under a heavy crown of Gruyere cheese, is a hearty and comforting start to any meal at Les Halles. "
Bill Homan

"One of the best steaks I've ever had and the best frites in NYC."
Bill Homan

"Moist, flavorful fish with a faint crust, garlicky mashed potatoes and fried leeks."
Bill Homan

"Crispy and salty, these frites are the best I have eaten... anywhere!"
Bill Homan

"Bacon, cream, mushrooms, and calvados brandy are the muses that inspire these wonderfully tender mussels."
Bill Homan

"The pork, mashed potatoes, and garlic cloves are a trio of flavorful goodness."
Bill Homan

"Les Halles doesn't bake the chewy, wonderful bread in the bread basket, but they smartly get it from a good local bakery."
Bill Homan

"Ice cream and pastry covered in a rich, warm, bitter chocolate sauce is a perfect ending to a Les Halles meal. "
Bill Homan

"Real, solid, good food inside."
Bill Homan

"Tucked away just outside the financial district."
Bill Homan