Les Halles

15 John Street, New York, NY - (212) 285-8585

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Posted By Patricia Beninato on 8/19/2008 10:06:00 PM

Les Halles is best known as the home base of Tony Bourdain, he of the Food Network and Travel Channel who calls out “celebrity chefs” and eats weird things in front of cameras. However it holds up well on its own, a French bistro in the heart of Manhattan's financial district (the main location's in midtown) but with far less stuffy manners and excellent food.

Despite its smart black and white tiled floor and elegant molded ceiling Les Halles is very casual, as evidenced by their t-shirt and jeans-clad waitstaff and the rock music on the sound system. If you are a carnivore this place should definitely be on your list of places to go.

My husband and I chose the planche de grillades (mixed grill) to share, and we were presented with a veritable mountain of meat. Thick cut bacon--literally, the slices were about a half-inch thick--spicy Moroccan lamb sausages, another sausage that was reminiscent of kielbasa, hanger steak, and a rather large pair of lamb chops, all done to perfection. This was accompanied by a heaping bowl of Les Halles' famous frites, and they're famous for a reason. If you love French fries you'll go face first in the bowl and beg for more because it's unlikely you'll ever have better ones outside France or Belgium. Even the homely bread basket comes with undeniably French butter, almost cream cheese-like in texture and taste. And save room for dessert. My husband raved about the homemade strawberry ice cream while I deeply enjoyed a flawless tarte tatin (upside down apple tart, a staple of French dessert menus).

There is an extensive wine list that covers every budget and taste. It's very possible for two people to eat here for well under a hundred dollars, rare for a decent New York restaurant. It may not be true Roadfood, but Les Halles is definitely worthy of a visit if you want good French home-cooking at a reasonable price.

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"Our friend loved this steak and raved about the frites."
Bill Homan

"Slow-cooked onions in a beef and red wine broth, buried under a heavy crown of Gruyere cheese, is a hearty and comforting start to any meal at Les Halles. "
Bill Homan

"One of the best steaks I've ever had and the best frites in NYC."
Bill Homan

"Moist, flavorful fish with a faint crust, garlicky mashed potatoes and fried leeks."
Bill Homan

"Crispy and salty, these frites are the best I have eaten... anywhere!"
Bill Homan

"Bacon, cream, mushrooms, and calvados brandy are the muses that inspire these wonderfully tender mussels."
Bill Homan

"The pork, mashed potatoes, and garlic cloves are a trio of flavorful goodness."
Bill Homan

"Les Halles doesn't bake the chewy, wonderful bread in the bread basket, but they smartly get it from a good local bakery."
Bill Homan

"Ice cream and pastry covered in a rich, warm, bitter chocolate sauce is a perfect ending to a Les Halles meal. "
Bill Homan

"Real, solid, good food inside."
Bill Homan

"Tucked away just outside the financial district."
Bill Homan