Dating back to an old-time Italian restaurant that opened in Norwalk in the 1930s, Letizia is now run by a third generation of great cooks. The menu includes pastas with homemade marinara sauce, veal or chicken parmesan dinners of Homeric size, baked ziti and ravioli, salads, and grinders … and all of these things are good. But the one item on the menu that puts Letizia’s in the Roadfood stratosphere is pizza. This is without doubt some of the best pizza in Connecticut – our highest possible praise, given the fact that Connecticut is home to the best pizza on earth.
Letizia’s pizza is Neapolitan style, meaning thin-crusted, but not too thin. Around the edge, it rises in a crisp ring of dough thick enough to deliver a good, bready crunch; in the center, depending on the weight of the toppings, it ranges from firm to slippery-soft. The pizzaioli at Letizia’s make this dough every day, then top it with a choice of ingredients that range from anchovies and broccoli to sausage and sliced tomatoes. Pizzas are brought from the kitchen on broad metal pans, along with small plates, if needed. What you will need, no doubt, is lots of napkins. This is not dainty pizza, and it cannot be eaten any way but messily! In particular, we are fond of the pepperoni pie generously topped with chewy, thin-cut discs, plenty of mozzarella and high-quality sauce, the clam casino pie made from clams, garlic, bacon, cheese, and onion, and the “garbage pie” heaped with a little bit of everything. There are “no cheese” pizzas, white pizzas (mozzarella, ricotta, and romano), and Hawaiian pizzas topped with ham and pineapple.
As for the place, Letizia’s location is quite nondescript – in a small shopping center on a commercial strip – and the interior is just a simple room with a take-out counter and a few tables. The walls are decorated with New York sports team memorabilia and old photographs that show the history of Letizia’s – always a humble place, but always a beacon of excellence.