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Halibut's

2525 N.E. Alberta, Portland, OR - (503) 808-9600
Posted By Michael Stern on 1/31/2007 10:56:00 AM
When we walked into Halibut's, owner Dave Mackay was at the left side of the restaurant behind the counter where the row of fry kettles is, proclaiming aloud the beauty of a particular side of salmon as he prepared to cut it into pieces that would be served within hours. It was an appetizing sight: vivid pink with dense, heavy flesh fairly dripping fatty savor. It came from the Copper River, of course (Alaska's coldest), and while broiling or grilling it would be grand, this restaurant's deep-fry skills are equally brilliant, encasing the kingly meat in a thin, fragile crust that is amazingly grease-free and only enhances the essential taste of the fish within.

All kinds of fish are fried here. The halibut comes as four heavy blocks that are moist and sweet, big white hunks flaking off with pieces of crust still clinging when you hoist them from the basket that also contains superb, crunch-crusted French fries. Also of note on the menu are Dungeness crab cakes, which come as a sheaf of four flat ones, very crabby and nicely spiced with a red-gold crust. And the chowder is not to be missed. It is ridiculously thick with clams and potatoes and a surfeit of rich pig meat, available plain in a bowl or with Alaskan bay shrimp added.

The restaurant is a casual bar setting with raucous blues playing on the speakers (or performed live weekend nights). Tables are bare wood. Decor is an eclectic assortment of nautical items and images of rock stars and movie stars. Overhead fans spin above the dining room, which is pretty much arranged around an impressively stocked bar. There is a happy hour menu and a long list of such whoop-de-doo cocktails as The Ultimate Margarita, a Mai Tai, and an insouciant Lemon Drop, made with fresh-squeezed lemons, Absolut Citron, Triple Sec, Bacardi Limon, sweet and sour and sugar and served in a goofy-stemmed martini glass.

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Scorecard

4 - Overall: One of the Best - Worth a Trip
Overall: One of the Best - Worth a Trip
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Reviewers Photos [Upload Your Photos]

A close view of a chunk of crisp-fried halibut. That golden crust is very fragile; inside, the snowy white meat is heavy, moist, and gentle-flavored.
"A close view of a chunk of crisp-fried halibut. That golden crust is very fragile; inside, the snowy white meat is heavy, moist, and gentle-flavored."
Michael Stern





Here's a full shot of a halibut & chips basket. The fries underneath are very crunchy, but large enough that there's plenty of creamy potato flavor. Cole slaw will set you back $1.25 extra, but it is a refreshing companion.
"Here's a full shot of a halibut & chips basket. The fries underneath are very crunchy, but large enough that there's plenty of creamy potato flavor. Cole slaw will set you back $1.25 extra, but it is a refreshing companion."
Michael Stern


This inconspicuous storefront serves some of the best fish and chips we've found anywhere in the Pacific Northwest. It's also a blues music club. Patrons and employees come out to these chairs to relax or have a smoke.
"This inconspicuous storefront serves some of the best fish and chips we've found anywhere in the Pacific Northwest. It's also a blues music club. Patrons and employees come out to these chairs to relax or have a smoke."
Michael Stern


While the cardboard bowl is not exactly formal, the chowder it contains is first class. It is thick and rich, but not overwhelmingly creamy, and its inventory of clams, bacon, and potatoes is tremendous.
"While the cardboard bowl is not exactly formal, the chowder it contains is first class. It is thick and rich, but not overwhelmingly creamy, and its inventory of clams, bacon, and potatoes is tremendous."
Michael Stern


Owner David Mackay shows a large, lovely piece of Copper River salmon he is about to cut into cooking-size pieces.
"Owner David Mackay shows a large, lovely piece of Copper River salmon he is about to cut into cooking-size pieces."
Michael Stern


Made from local Dungeness Crab, Halibut's crab cakes are pancake-shaped with an appealingly crisp crust. The crab meat is laced with just enough spice to bring out its ocean sweetness.
"Made from local Dungeness Crab, Halibut's crab cakes are pancake-shaped with an appealingly crisp crust. The crab meat is laced with just enough spice to bring out its ocean sweetness."
Michael Stern


The lemon drop is a vodka-based refresher for which lemons are freshly squeezed at the bar. It comes in a silly-stemmed martini glass.
"The lemon drop is a vodka-based refresher for which lemons are freshly squeezed at the bar. It comes in a silly-stemmed martini glass."
Michael Stern


Tables each have a bucket holding hot sauce, Tabasco, salt and pepper, and malt vinegar for splashing on fish and chips.
"Tables each have a bucket holding hot sauce, Tabasco, salt and pepper, and malt vinegar for splashing on fish and chips."
Michael Stern


Portland has a number of excellent upscale fish restaurants. This one is more an of-the-people place, but its fish and chips is unsurpassed.
"Portland has a number of excellent upscale fish restaurants. This one is more an of-the-people place, but its fish and chips is unsurpassed."
Michael Stern



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