Posted by Brent Kulman on December 28, 2007
Most southern cities of a certain size have a good pancake joint, but the Pancake Pantry in Nashville is a cut above the rest. They've resisted the temptation to change and continue to perform at the top level. Success has clearly not gone to their heads (and the Pantry has had plenty of success).
I had the sweet potato pancakes. I have to confess, sweet potatoes are a particular weakness of mine, and I have yet to have a sweet potato concoction that I've disliked (and I am frustrated in this regard as nobody else in my family likes sweet potatoes, so when I see them on a menu I'm immediately attracted as if they are a forbidden fruit). Pancake Pantry's sweet potato pancakes are flavorful and medium-bodied. The portion is large, and I had to restrain myself from eating the whole batch (and why is it that pancake joints always give you about twice as many pancakes as you really need?).
It is the small things that separate the ordinary from the extraordinary and at Pancake Pantry, it is the range of syrups and the care taken to match certain pancakes with certain syrups. Two were presented to my table: the everyday syrup (which is maple-flavored) and the cinnamon cream syrup. I kept going back and forth as each of them brought out a different flavor sensation from the sweet potato.
I wish I could have pancakes for breakfast more frequently but my waistline would rebel. Nevertheless, on those rare occasions when I feel like indulging, I would make a beeline for the Pancake Pantry if it were within range.
Overall: Worth a major detour
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"These ultra-tender sweet potato pancakes are served with whipped butter and ginger cream."
Michael Stern
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" Swedish pancakes are thin and eggy, wrapped around lingonberry preserves. No syrup is necessary."
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"Rugged-textured and succulent, Tennessee ham is a great companion for tender pancakes."
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"What a dandy breakfast: luxurious hash browns in the foreground, stalwart country ham in back. Who needs eggs or pancakes?"
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"The maple syrup in the taller bottle is served warm. The pitcher contains ginger cream."
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"What a comfortable dining room: big, airy, and full of people having fun as they plow through plates of pancakes."
Michael Stern
"To most foodies, Nashville is (rightfully) known as a city of biscuits, ham, and grits for breakfast. Once you've eaten here, you'll definitely add pancakes to the list of assets."
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