Posted By Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle
4/2/2008 2:26:00 PM
For some reason we feel compelled to make this confession whenever we are about to recommend a restaurant for its hash: we like canned hash. OK, not "we"; one of us does (we won't say which one, but we will say that his wife finds the tightly-packed, greasy, cylindrical-shaped substance with an aroma uncomfortably close to dog food to be, how to put this delicately... vile). Hopefully, you'll take that as an indication of a real love of hash, not a real lack of taste. Because if you trust us, we can direct you to a Las Vegas breakfast jackpot called Hash House, which really is a HASH house.
Hash House is a breakfast and lunch cafe that prides itself on doing it all themselves. Just about everything on the menu is made in-house: the hash-browns, the sausage and biscuits, the jams and jellies, and yes, the hash. The menu lists the following hash options: corned beef, roast beef, ham, chicken, Super, and Party. They're all made with potatoes, diced peppers, and onions; Super Hash combines all four hashes, while the Party Hash adds jalapenos and mushrooms to the Super Hash, and scrambles eggs into the mix too! These hashes are a textural jumble; as you fork into the hash you find some pieces that have crisped up on the hot griddle and some that remain soft and buttery. All are freshly made, and tasting is proof.
Toast. What's so special about toast? Well, at Hash House, if you want jam for your toast, you are brought a mind boggling assortment to select from, in little plastic cups, all homemade. Some flavors you might encounter include watermelon, habanero, apple, strawberry, jalapeno, peach... the list goes on and on. Try more than one if you'd like; it's a fun game.
Hash is not all. Of course there are pancakes and waffles and eggs, and they'll set you up with some sausage gravy and bicuits or country fried steak if you'd like. They even have wild-caught Alaskan salmon and eggs. Lunches are an assortment of sandwiches and salads. Of special interest are the soups-of-the day: highlights include split pea with ham on Tuesdays, beef stew Wednesdays, corn chowder on Sundays.
Hash House's origins go back to the Midwest, and the simple, unflashy home-cooking, served in a simple, unflashy room, plays well in mega-flashy Vegas.
Note: There is a restaurant in Las Vegas named Hash House A Go Go, part of a small chain, and they get much more attention than this Hash House. The two restaurants are not connected in any way. It is the non-A-Go-Go place that we are recommending.