This pleasant suburban restaurant with an outdoor patio under tall silver poplars is one of a small local chain that built its reputation on hamburgers. Huge hamburgers, about the size and shape of a toy football: one-half pound of rosy beef, encased in dark crust, arrives at your table with dark rye bread, the implication being you could eat it like a sandwich. But it is way too big to pick up in your hands, and the juicy red meat tends to fall apart. So you dig in to the mighty mound with knife and fork. A Hackneyburger comes with French fries, cole slaw, and sliced raw onion, but those in the know pay extra for a fried onion loaf – a great tangled brick of fried sweet Spanish onions with a devilish crunch.