Kelly’s is a pint-size barbecue house that serves pork with full-size flavor. You can have it sliced or chopped, and although slices allow you to enjoy the tenderness of the meat, the chopped version – mixed with only enough tangy/sweet sauce to moisten it – fairly radiates flavor. It is hacked quite fine, into shreds and chunks that are nearly as small as chili-grind beef, making a sandwich extremely hard to pick up without serious amounts of spillage out the edges. Two sizes of sandwich are available: normal, which is a quarter pound of meat on a bun that is four inches in diameter, and jumbo, which is a half pound on a five-inch bun.
Easier to eat, especially if you plan on sitting at one of Kelly’s handful of indoor tables or at a picnic table outside, is a barbecue plate. That’s meat, slaw, bread, and French fries, plus – if you order the large plate – a steaming portion of Brunswick stew. Stew – Georgians’ favorite BBQ companion – is also available by the bowl, pint, quart, and gallon.
In fact, much of Kelly’s business is take-out; so the whole menu can be bought by the pound. In addition to chopped or sliced pork, which are the meats of choice hereabouts, you can get ribs, chicken, or beef. Service at the counter is lightning fast; we watched our sandwiches assembled before we had time to reach for our wallet and pay.