Although the Baltimore area is not known as a haven for good barbecue, Andy Nelson is doing his best to put Charm City on the map of “Q” aficionados. You know you’re in for a treat when you pull in and see (1) a pig on the roof, (2) a pile of hickory logs out back, and (3) a man named Bubba preparing meat behind the counter. Andy himself is a former safety for the Baltimore Colts and still comes in to make sure everything is running up to his standards. He grew up in Alabama, where his father was known as the “Chief Barbecue Man” of Lime County.
The restaurant is probably best known for its pulled pork, which is perfectly succulent and lightly sauced with a hint of vinegar. You could easily eat the pork as served, but both ketchup-based and mustard-based sauces are offered on the side. Andy’s ribs are served Memphis-style, with a dry rub that is flavorful and spicy but not overwhelming. The meat is tender and slides easily off the bone. Beef brisket, pulled turkey, and roasted chicken are also offered, although the ribs and pork are the highlights.
The best side is collard greens, which are deliciously smoky and laced with shreds of pork. The beans are somewhat unusual, infused with peppers that give them a tangy kick. A mayonnaise-based coleslaw provides a nice balance to the pulled pork, the fresh cabbage giving it a great crunch. The potato wedges are less impressive; a crispier exterior would help.
Seating is offered both indoors and at picnic tables outside. When Bubba came by our table to ask if we enjoyed our meals, he mentioned that the only complaint he’d ever received was from an older gentleman who didn’t like the music being played. If my experience is representative, his complaint log won’t be getting much longer anytime soon.
