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Waves of Grain

3116 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, OR - (503) 436-9600
Posted By Michael Stern on 8/14/2008 7:05:00 PM
Jason and Hillary Fargo, proprietors of Waves of Grain, a bakery at the south end of the spectacularly scenic Pacific coast community of Cannon Beach, were facing a dilemma when I visited in July, 2008. "Our flour mill does only twenty cups at a time," Hillary said. "We drove out east and brought back a truck full of wheat berries. We store them in our garage, but the bakery has grown and we need more than twenty cups at a time." The Fargos buy their wheat north of Pendleton from Hillary's second cousin, Fritz Hill, who is a fourth generation farmer. A vintage black and white photo on the wall of the small bakery shows Hillary's great-great grandfather driving a mule-drawn thresher.

The wheat is a variety known as dark northern, which is especially well-suited for breads and pastries, thus helping to explain why Waves of Grain biscuits, breads, muffins, sticky buns, and cheese sticks are so extraordinary, and why this bakery earns top rank in the Roadfood Pantheon. The friendly little shop turns out some of the most delicious baked goods I have tasted north of the San Francisco Bay. During a three-day visit to Cannon Beach, I got breakfast there every morning and even managed to nab some focaccias and quiches for lunch, followed by dessert of chocolate buttermilk cupcakes and blueberry cream cheese bars.

Still, it was frustrating not to be able to try everything on the bakery shelves. It all looks so good, and everything I ate was memorable. Of particular note are the big Tillamook cheese biscuit with its crisp edges and creamy inside, the crusty cheese sticks, and the elegant sticky bun (which I got one morning still hot from the oven, praise be!). Good coffee and espresso drinks are made from organic, fair-trade beans roasted in town by an outfit called the Sleepy Monk.

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Scorecard

5 - Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Cheese Stick
Sticky Bun
Cupcake
Raisin Bran Muffin
Cheese Biscuit
Quiche
Gooseberry Tart
Focaccia
Blueberry Scone
Cookies
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Moist and intensely chocolaty, the chocolate cupcake is made from a buttermilk batter, the tang of which beautifully balances its naturally sweet nature.
"Moist and intensely chocolaty, the chocolate cupcake is made from a buttermilk batter, the tang of which beautifully balances its naturally sweet nature."
Michael Stern





The star of the show in my book: a creamy biscuit laced with cheddar cheese and bits of green onion, turbocharged with plenty of coarse-ground black pepper.
"The star of the show in my book: a creamy biscuit laced with cheddar cheese and bits of green onion, turbocharged with plenty of coarse-ground black pepper."
Michael Stern


The gooseberries are tart, cool, crisp, and refreshing, their impeccable freshness complemented by an inner ring of recently picked raspberries that are unbelievably sweet, the two fruits perched on a pallet of creamy goodness.
"The gooseberries are tart, cool, crisp, and refreshing, their impeccable freshness complemented by an inner ring of recently picked raspberries that are unbelievably sweet, the two fruits perched on a pallet of creamy goodness."
Michael Stern


Got blueberries? You will if you have a Waves of Grain blueberry scone.
"Got blueberries? You will if you have a Waves of Grain blueberry scone."
Michael Stern


Breakfast pastries star at Waves of Grain, but there is no denying the puffy, bready goodness of the savory cheese-and-tomato focaccia that was flavored with rosemary.
"Breakfast pastries star at Waves of Grain, but there is no denying the puffy, bready goodness of the savory cheese-and-tomato focaccia that was flavored with rosemary."
Michael Stern


It may look like an ordinary bran muffin, but this powerhouse contains coffee in the batter and is gilded with an espresso glaze. Good morning to you!
"It may look like an ordinary bran muffin, but this powerhouse contains coffee in the batter and is gilded with an espresso glaze. Good morning to you!"
Michael Stern


For those who like bread with a lot of crunch, these cheese sticks are heavenly. Still chewy at their core, they have crisp edge galore.
"For those who like bread with a lot of crunch, these cheese sticks are heavenly. Still chewy at their core, they have crisp edge galore."
Michael Stern


The quiche du jour: chorizo sausage and cheese. A tidy, tasty lunch.
"The quiche du jour: chorizo sausage and cheese. A tidy, tasty lunch."
Michael Stern


Sticky buns are made from fluffy brioche dough and loaded with pecans inside and out. Waves of Grain offers a more indulgent alternative, the Bohemian Bun, which adds coconut and almonds to the mix.
"Sticky buns are made from fluffy brioche dough and loaded with pecans inside and out. Waves of Grain offers a more indulgent alternative, the Bohemian Bun, which adds coconut and almonds to the mix."
Michael Stern


A little bakery with a big personality, Waves of Grain is at the south end of Cannon Beach, just after you get off Route 101 and head into town.
"A little bakery with a big personality, Waves of Grain is at the south end of Cannon Beach, just after you get off Route 101 and head into town."
Michael Stern


Here is a picture I took of Haystack Rock, the main scenic attraction of Cannon Beach and visible from nearly everywhere in town. Waves of Grain already had closed for the day when I took the twilight photo, but I was at the bakery door next morning at 7am for its opening!
"Here is a picture I took of Haystack Rock, the main scenic attraction of Cannon Beach and visible from nearly everywhere in town. Waves of Grain already had closed for the day when I took the twilight photo, but I was at the bakery door next morning at 7am for its opening!"
Michael Stern


A sign inside Waves of Grain suggests just how much Oregonians like their coffee.
"A sign inside Waves of Grain suggests just how much Oregonians like their coffee."
Michael Stern



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