Kojak's House of Ribs is a modest feed stop, near Tampa's scenic Hillsborough Bay, that serves outsized meat dishes and sides. The spare ribs have a crispy char outside and are moist, great in combination with the parsley potatoes, a buttery-gold side concoction. The hot link sandwich is a worthwhile diversion from the ribs if, for whatever reason, ribs are not foremost on the mind of a diner at a place with as ribby a name as Kojak's. The links are snappy and have a little picante zing to keep things interesting.
Both meat dishes go well with the somewhat local beer: Ybor Gold. Last, and certainly not least, comes the key lime pie, which -- with its nice mixing of sour and sweet in a dense curd -- is tough not to tackle.