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Kitchen Little

135 Greenmanville Ave., Mystic, CT - (860) 536-2122
Posted By Michael Stern on 9/2/2010 6:31:00 PM
"Kitchen Little" isn't just a cute name. This place on the road to historic Mystic Seaport really is miniscule: 400 square feet, including the kitchen, with tiny tables packed so close together you need to keep an eye on your plate to make sure a neighbor doesn't accidentally fork up a piece of your corned beef hash.

Because this little eating hut has exactly twenty-three indoor seats, including a handful at a counter with a view of a mail-slot-sized window to the kitchen (plus an array of picnic tables on a deck out back), you might wait a while on a weekend morning; but if the weather is pleasant, the delay can be delightful. There are a couple of wood slat benches out front under a tall pole topped with a U.S. flag, and the steel-blue water lapping up against the grassy shore just beyond the café is hypnotic.

AM Eggstasy is the house motto; and the omelets are stupendous, as is a dish known as the S'medley, which is scrambled eggs combined with melted cheese, fried potatoes, sausage, mushrooms, and onions. The S'medley was named to honor Susan Davis, the woman who originally transformed the little building that had once been a private home, then a rug shop, then a greasy spoon, into Kitchen Little back in the late 1970s.

Another highlight from the breakfast menu is The Portuguese Fisherman, which is scrambled eggs, sausage, peppers, onions, and jalapeno cheese with a Portuguese English muffin. If you're watching your cholesterol, you can have an omelet made with just one yolk and three whites, filled with spinach, tomatoes, mushrooms, peppers, onions, and carrots, with health nut toast on the side.

Lunch is not to be slighted. There are fine, big hamburgers, world-class fried clams, and superb Southern New England Style clam chowder. It is the clear-broth variety, steel-gray and briny, loaded with tender nuggets of clam -- a great winter-warm-up meal.

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Scorecard

5 - Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Omelet
S'medley
Hot Lobster Roll
pancakes
California Benedict
Corned beef hash
Herbed eggs
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Reviewers Photos [Upload Your Photos]

California Benedict is visual evidence of Kitchen Little's motto, 'AM Eggstasy!' It is just the sort of fresh, sunny dish that starts the day off right.
"California Benedict is visual evidence of Kitchen Little's motto, 'AM Eggstasy!' It is just the sort of fresh, sunny dish that starts the day off right."
Michael Stern





Two eggs scrambled with cheese cost $3.95 and are perfectly simple and simply perfect. For a dollar extra, the kitchen tosses in a handful of fresh herbs. A swell addition. The accompanying English muffin is not actually English, but is secured from a Portuguese bakery in Fall River, the same city Kitchen Little gets its chourico sausage.
"Two eggs scrambled with cheese cost $3.95 and are perfectly simple and simply perfect. For a dollar extra, the kitchen tosses in a handful of fresh herbs. A swell addition. The accompanying English muffin is not actually English, but is secured from a Portuguese bakery in Fall River, the same city Kitchen Little gets its chourico sausage."
Michael Stern


Rightly famous for its way with eggs, Kitchen Little is no slouch in the egg-companion category. This sizzled-crisp corned beef hash is a meal unto itself.
"Rightly famous for its way with eggs, Kitchen Little is no slouch in the egg-companion category. This sizzled-crisp corned beef hash is a meal unto itself."
Michael Stern


Cook James Woolley, son of proprietor Flo Klewin, just tossed the ingredients for a Western omelet into the pan.
"Cook James Woolley, son of proprietor Flo Klewin, just tossed the ingredients for a Western omelet into the pan."
Michael Stern


The beginning stages of omelet #9, filled with cream cheese, fresh spinach leaves, and mushrooms
"The beginning stages of omelet #9, filled with cream cheese, fresh spinach leaves, and mushrooms"
Michael Stern


Look above the counter and note the various coffee mugs that belong to regular customers: always a good sign in a small cafe. Just behind the white brick wall is the galley-sized kitchen.
"Look above the counter and note the various coffee mugs that belong to regular customers: always a good sign in a small cafe. Just behind the white brick wall is the galley-sized kitchen."
Michael Stern


A top-split hot dog roll, nicely toasted (on the grill) on the outside, filled with tender hot buttered lobster meat on the inside. Hard to find these days, well worth the trip.
"A top-split hot dog roll, nicely toasted (on the grill) on the outside, filled with tender hot buttered lobster meat on the inside. Hard to find these days, well worth the trip."
Tim Degraye


A little gem for travelers in search of breakfast or lunch along I-95 in eastern Connecticut
"A little gem for travelers in search of breakfast or lunch along I-95 in eastern Connecticut"
Jo Lock


Although there are less than two dozen seats inside, Kitchen Little has an outdoor deck that is a glorious place to eat in nice weather.
"Although there are less than two dozen seats inside, Kitchen Little has an outdoor deck that is a glorious place to eat in nice weather."
Michael Stern


Kitchen Little's little dining room.
"Kitchen Little's little dining room."
Michael Stern


Souvenir mugs are emblazoned with the question, 'Is there life before coffee?'
"Souvenir mugs are emblazoned with the question, 'Is there life before coffee?'"
Michael Stern


Always ship-shape despite its impractically small size, Kitchen Little is just down the road from Mystic Seaport.
"Always ship-shape despite its impractically small size, Kitchen Little is just down the road from Mystic Seaport."
Michael Stern



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