"The role often taken by cole slaw in Mid-South barbecue sandwiches is here played by Old Hickory's fine sauce -- a delicate brew that adds tangy sweetness to the creamy-flavored pork. In the background is a bowl of Brunswick stew."
Michael Stern
"Look closely at the barbecue on this plate. Note that among the pale inside pieces are plenty of darker, crunchy chunks from the outside of the Boston butt from which it is made. Note also those beans at the back of the plate: they are wonderful. This is a small plate, costing about $8.00. For $2 more, you get large."
Michael Stern
"About the wickedest hushpuppies I've ever had: sinfully oily, but with that severe crunch that makes eating them so joyful, and sweet cornmeal insides that are pigmeat's best friend."
Michael Stern
"Many locations throughout the South have their own way with Brunswick stew. In Charlotte, it is a thick gallimaufry laced with meat and vegetables, usually served as a side dish, but a worthy meal unto itself."
Michael Stern
"Chimney sweep? Old Hickory House don't need no stinkin' chimney sweep. From this stack comes the sweet perfume of pork basking in smoke from smoldering hickory."
Michael Stern
"The little horseshoe at the top of the Old Hickory House sign hints at the cowboy decor inside. But the cuisine is more North Carolinian than it is Texan."
Michael Stern
"While nothing wonderful of itself, the Texas toast that comes along with dinners is very handy for mopping up the last of the barbecue or Brunswick stew."
Michael Stern
"This covered wagon hanging on the wall evokes the Old West."
Michael Stern
It's ironic that the interior decoration of the Old Hickory House Restaurant is cowboy-western: pine-paneled walls festooned with longhorn racks and cowpuncher's tools. Although the Texas-style barbecued beef comes highly recommended -- and I will try it someday, for sure -- what's truly compelling from this smoke pit is classic Carolinian: slow-smoked pork butts that get sliced (very good) or chopped (sensational) and very judiciously sauced with a cinnabar emulsion that has a shot of pepper, a twist of lemon, the twang of vinegar, and who-knows-what other spices. It comes in sandwiches or on partitioned plates along with a couple of side dishes and a basket of double-thick Texas toast.
