Every city needs a Bogue's -- the place to go for hearty breakfast, endless coffee, and waitresses who give no quarter. The pea green walls and upholstered booths are not exactly glamorous; but to connoisseurs of stick-to-the ribs cuisine, Bogue's is a gem in the rough.
While the meat-and-three lunches can be excellent, breakfast is the meal that feels most right here. Bogue's biscuits are richly endowed with enough cooking grease that your fingers will glisten after you split one in half, and the bottom gets as crusty-brown as a deep-fried potato. These biscuits make great companions to breakfasts in which eggs are only minor players on plates of pork chops or country ham or just a huge spill of pepper gravy and, of course, lots of grits. If for some reason you don't want biscuits, we highly recommend the sweet rolls. "Are they made here?" we ask our waitress.
"Every morning," she reassures us, speaking loud enough to be heard over the blast of Bogue's high-powered air-conditioning and, without being asked, bringing us Tabasco sauce for a plate of eggs.