Whistle Stop

Branchville Rd., Ridgefield, CT - (203) 544-8139

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Posted By Michael Stern on 10/16/2002 5:10:00 PM

Whistle Stop’s sticky buns are really, really sticky. It’s probably a good idea to eat them with a knife and fork, seated at a table … but few people do. Located inside the Branchville, Connecticut, train station where many commuters hop Metro North on their way to the city, Whistle Stop caters to people with little time to sit and eat. We aren’t commuters, but even when we buy a dozen of the swirly buns to take home, which is a mere two miles away, it is not likely more than ten will arrive at the kitchen table. They’re too much fun to eat while still warm; and frankly, licking the caramel goo off one’s fingers is part of the pleasure.

When Whistle Stop originally opened, muffins were just about the only thing on the menu; and there are still about a dozen fine varieties baked every morning, notable for immense tops that completely cover the pans in which they are baked. The ones we like include a crumbly corn muffin, cake-sweet blueberry, raisin-dotted bran, gingerbread, sour cream almond, apple cinnamon, and seriously candy-packed chocolate chip. Also available are rich-textured scones and even bagels.

Since she opened her muffin hut in the old wood-walled train station almost two decades ago, Lolly Turner has created a pleasant little dining area in what used to be the station’s waiting room. Here, those in no hurry read the paper, sip coffee and eat their pastry of choice at leisure. Alas, Lolly herself is less frequently behind the counter, but her adorable breakfast nook remains a friendly place to stop for a morning coffee and a bite, whether you are traveling by train, car, or bicycle.

Scorecard

Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace

Sticky Bun	Raspberry Scone
Apple Cinnamon Muffin	Bran Muffin
Biscotti	Breakfast Cookie

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"Something new on the Whistle Stop menu: chocolate biscotti dotted with sweet/tart dried cranberries. These are wonderful with coffee! In the background are a couple of chocolate cupcakes with Halloween-theme spider-web designs on the frosting."
Michael Stern

"Sticky buns: not dunkable, but coffee's boon companion."
Michael Stern

"Lolly's muffins are so tasty that the stumps are nearly as good to eat as the tops!"
Michael Stern

"Lolly's opens early in the morning so commuters can get their muffin fix."
Michael Stern

""Treat yourself to a healthy breakfast cookie. It sure beats a Pop Tart on the run." So says a sign on the Whistle Stop wall. This is a cranberry breakfast cookie (raisin also is available). It is dense, chewy, and more like serious cereal than a frivolous muffin."
Michael Stern

"I had to fight for my share of this delicious scone with Lewis the parrot, who goes crazy over its rich, creamy texture."
Michael Stern

"A raisin-bran muffin and an apple muffin ... with tops ready to break away"
Michael Stern

"The raisin-bran muffin stump, on my desk after an heroic devouring of its top. One more cup of coffee, and this was gone, too."
Michael Stern