If there is a heaven for biscuit-lovers, it’s got to be a lot like Mamie’s. As you walk into the little restaurant at the edge of Conyers, look beyond the order counter into the kitchen. There, throughout the day, you will see biscuits being made by hand, one at a time, from dough pulled out of a big silver bowl. And you see big trays of golden brown ones hot from the oven, ready to serve. The biscuits you eat at Mamie’s are always warm and fresh, but it is possible that you may arrive at a moment in time when the ones you are about to receive are still baking. So you place your order and pay, then find a seat and wait. Soon before you will appear the fluffiest, tastiest, best-smelling biscuits you ever imagined.
There’s nothing wrong with a plain one into which you melt some butter; but Mamie’s has a whole menu of great things to put inside. Our choice for a biscuit sandwich is country ham – a slice or two of ultra-flavorful, super-salty pink meat with just enough oily smack to imprint the fleecy soft insides. For those who want a serious taste of pig, there’s streak o’ lean, which is similar to bacon but thicker, crunchier, and even more luscious. It is also possible to get a biscuit or two split open and smothered with creamy sausage gravy, or crowned with a piece of pan-fried chicken with gravy made from the drippin’s in the skillet.
Lunch at Mamie’s is terrific, too: it’s meat and threes, with such entrees as chicken and dressing, pork chops, or meat loaf with sides of collards and sweet potatoes and – instead of biscuits – hunks of cornbread loaded with the succulent pork nuggets known as cracklin’s.