Barbara's Fish Trap

281 Capistrano Rd., Half Moon Bay, CA - (650) 728-7049

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Posted By Michael Stern on 10/9/2009 6:04:00 AM

When I was told about Barbara's fish and chips, the tipster described the fish as tempura. Whether or not it officially fits that description, it most definitely has that light, crisp feel about its batter. The fish within is rock cod, an especially sweet, moist Pacific snapper that is cut good and thick so that each time you cut a forkful, you get about 90% fish and just enough of that ethereal batter to highlight the fresh marine flavor. Chips are thick-cut fries cooked dark gold, needing only a hail of salt to attain their delicious destiny. California malt vinegar is provided (so is ketchup), but I like the potatoes' crispness too much to dampen it with anything.

Chowder is the other highlight on Barbara's broad seafood menu. It is hearty but not creamy like New England chowder. Big pieces of tender clam are the dominant flavor, abetted by little bits of potato and celery as well as a sprinkle of hot pepper atop the cup or bowl. It also is available served in a sourdough bread bowl; and given the location just south of San Francisco, you can count on that bowl being delicious.

Dungeness crab, starting in the fall, is one of the region's top treats, available simply cracked, in crab Louie or as the star player in a mighty cioppino. It's expensive, though. In fact, fish and chips, at $12.50, is one of the most affordable things on the menu. Most serious entrees are in the $20+ range. The prices reflect quality seafood but there is nothing upscale about Barbara's. Au contraire, it is a very relaxed sort of place: oilcloth-covered tables, fish nets on the ceiling, neon beer signs in the window. Credit cards are not accepted, nor are reservations taken.

Scorecard

Overall: One of the Best - Worth a Trip

Fish and Chips	Sourdough Bread
Clam Chowder (cup)

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"A plate of fish and chips arrives still steaming and too hot to eat. But after one bite, I was willing to risk a bit of tongue burn to fork it down eagerly. It is too good to simply look at and not eat ASAP."
Michael Stern

"Thick and ocean-sweet, Barbara's chowder is a classic Pacific Coast brew -- less about cream and butter and all about the taste of clams."
Michael Stern

"Given the San Francisco area's high bread consciousness, it is no surprise that the sourdough preceding supper at Barbara's Fish Trap is excellent: chewy crumb, crisp crust, vibrant yeasty flavor."
Michael Stern

"Barbara's has a semi-enclosed front-patio dining area. The windows serve to keep out greedy seagulls eager to steal your lunch. The chairs outside are for waiting when the place is crowded, as it so often is."
Michael Stern

"From the beach."
Malcolm Ruthven