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Bereket

2871 Fairfield Ave., Bridgeport, CT - (203) 333-9393
Posted By Michael Stern on 1/19/2011 2:44:00 PM
Jane and I rubbed our hands with glee when Carol, an old friend, first told us about Bereket a few years ago. Located in the back room of a filling station and serving painstakingly homemade Turkish food, it sounded like -- and it was -- a Roadfood bonanza. There were a few problems, like virtually no seating other than outdoor picnic tables and hardly even any room to stand inside. The experience was, to say the least, extremely casual. Of course, we loved it.

NOTE: THE NEW ADDRESS IS 2871 FAIRFIELD AVE., BRIDGEPORT, CT. 203-333-9393.

Bereket has since moved and become a real restaurant with tablecloths, waitresses, plastic-covered menu, and full-size kitchen hidden in back. There are plenty of seats, fair weather or foul. While I do miss the crazy informality of dining in the back of a gas station and the joys of observing experts in the open kitchen, one thing has not changed at all: the delicious food. Based on one big recent lunch, it might be better than ever.

I still love Bereket's humus, served with warm pita bread. The familiar chickpea paste is here uncommonly rich but also bright with a refreshing shot of fresh lemon juice. I ate plenty, yet brought home enough of the $4.99 appetizer for a couple more meals.

The spicy lamb meatballs known as kofte are available in a wrap or a full dinner. I chose the former and got four patties of expertly seasoned lamb still glistening hot off the grill, all nestled in a crisp salad inside the wrap. This is a very large and very, very delicious meal.

When I first visited, the rice pudding and baklava were still cooking. The only available dessert was kadayif, the pastry that looks like shredded wheat but turns out to be delicate, superfine dough mixed with unconsciounable amounts of sugar and chopped walnuts. My square was cut from a fresh pan, still piping hot. I would be tempted to use the word "sinful" to describe how over-the-top delicious it is, but I will not, for Bereket makes a point of serving only food that is halal (virtuous according to Islamic dietary law). I have since returned for rice pudding, which is superb.

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Scorecard

5 - Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Gyro Plate
Humus
Kadayif
Kofte Wrap
Mixed Appetizer Plate
Turkish Tea
Mixed Grill
Salad
Rice Pudding
Adana Kebab Sandwich
Baklava
Kofte Plate
Sigara Borek
Apricot Juice
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Reviewers Photos [Upload Your Photos]

Six big lamb meatballs crown a pile of really savory rice on the kofte plate.
"Six big lamb meatballs crown a pile of really savory rice on the kofte plate."
Michael Stern





This picture makes me think of a succulent sound the lamb meatballs made when my teeth cut through their rugged skin and into the meat, causing juices to flow. The meat is dense, well-balanced by the spritely salad and toasty wrap that enclose it.
"This picture makes me think of a succulent sound the lamb meatballs made when my teeth cut through their rugged skin and into the meat, causing juices to flow. The meat is dense, well-balanced by the spritely salad and toasty wrap that enclose it."
Michael Stern


Finer dining: tables at the new Bereket are covered with tablecloths.
"Finer dining: tables at the new Bereket are covered with tablecloths."
Michael Stern


The best dessert I've had since the hot fudge sundaes of Buffalo. It didn't hurt that this square of kadayif was hot from the oven, causing its rosy sweetness to virtually erupt at first taste.
"The best dessert I've had since the hot fudge sundaes of Buffalo. It didn't hurt that this square of kadayif was hot from the oven, causing its rosy sweetness to virtually erupt at first taste."
Michael Stern


The guys behind the counter said that the gyro du jour changes. Sometimes it is lamb or lamb and beef. This one is chicken. They will slice it for a wrap or full plate.
"The guys behind the counter said that the gyro du jour changes. Sometimes it is lamb or lamb and beef. This one is chicken. They will slice it for a wrap or full plate."
Michael Stern


Only modestly garlicky, this humus is more about the leguminous nature of the chickpea, accented by tahini and lemon juice.
"Only modestly garlicky, this humus is more about the leguminous nature of the chickpea, accented by tahini and lemon juice."
Michael Stern


Before tightly wrapping my kofte sandwich, the chef asked if I would like to take a picture of it all laid out.
"Before tightly wrapping my kofte sandwich, the chef asked if I would like to take a picture of it all laid out."
Michael Stern


Starting at one o'clock, if memory serves: babaganoj (eggplant, tahini and garlic), acili ezme (hot red peppers, tomato and spice), cacik (yogurt with cucumbers and herbs), humus, [mystery thing that was delicious, reminiscent of potato salad], spinach with sour cream, and eggplant salad with peppers, garlic and parseley. Not a ringer in the lot. Smoky-toasted pita bread comes alongside for dipping.
"Starting at one o'clock, if memory serves: babaganoj (eggplant, tahini and garlic), acili ezme (hot red peppers, tomato and spice), cacik (yogurt with cucumbers and herbs), humus, [mystery thing that was delicious, reminiscent of potato salad], spinach with sour cream, and eggplant salad with peppers, garlic and parseley. Not a ringer in the lot. Smoky-toasted pita bread comes alongside for dipping."
Michael Stern


A close view of Bereket's mixed lamb and beef gyro. This good stuff did not come from one of those compressed cylinders at a typical gyro stand. The Bereket guys assemble it in such a way that it is a textural adventure, from velvet soft to crunchy edge, as well as a taste-buds epiphany.
"A close view of Bereket's mixed lamb and beef gyro. This good stuff did not come from one of those compressed cylinders at a typical gyro stand. The Bereket guys assemble it in such a way that it is a textural adventure, from velvet soft to crunchy edge, as well as a taste-buds epiphany."
Michael Stern


The white rectangles of cheese on this bright salad are a reminder of just how good feta cheese can be: briney with an assertive tang that cow's milk products simply cannot deliver.
"The white rectangles of cheese on this bright salad are a reminder of just how good feta cheese can be: briney with an assertive tang that cow's milk products simply cannot deliver."
Michael Stern


Although it is in the back of a gas station and prices are criminally low, Bereket is a most civilized place, as evidenced by this lovely glass of tea that followed lunch.
"Although it is in the back of a gas station and prices are criminally low, Bereket is a most civilized place, as evidenced by this lovely glass of tea that followed lunch."
Michael Stern


American sodas and bottled water are available, but I could not resist this apricot juice that really was quite fruity, and a boon companion for the savory, spicy food.
"American sodas and bottled water are available, but I could not resist this apricot juice that really was quite fruity, and a boon companion for the savory, spicy food."
Michael Stern


Some of Bereket's meats. From the left, chicken meat balls, chicken kebab, a sausage of beef and lamb, beef kebab, and meat from a gyro of lamb and beef. Those long green peppers on top are very hot.
"Some of Bereket's meats. From the left, chicken meat balls, chicken kebab, a sausage of beef and lamb, beef kebab, and meat from a gyro of lamb and beef. Those long green peppers on top are very hot."
Michael Stern


Gyros are available as a sandwich, but the plate is effulgent: heaps of meat, plus freshly roasted peppers of different sizes and some salad and (not shown) pita bread.
"Gyros are available as a sandwich, but the plate is effulgent: heaps of meat, plus freshly roasted peppers of different sizes and some salad and (not shown) pita bread."
Michael Stern


The one lone table at the old Bereket. Cozy, yes, but impractical indeed.
"The one lone table at the old Bereket. Cozy, yes, but impractical indeed."
Michael Stern


Adana kebabs are very spicy skewer-cooked lengths of ground lamb.
"Adana kebabs are very spicy skewer-cooked lengths of ground lamb."
Michael Stern


A quartet of baklava await eating.
"A quartet of baklava await eating."
Michael Stern


Behind the Turkish counter is a cooler with both American and Turkish drinks, from Coke to apricot juice.
"Behind the Turkish counter is a cooler with both American and Turkish drinks, from Coke to apricot juice."
Michael Stern


Although the new location is quiet polite and food is served on real plates, this order of rice pudding was served unceremoniously in an aluminum tub. Who cares? It is creamy, rich, and delicious; and the rice itself is a revelation.
"Although the new location is quiet polite and food is served on real plates, this order of rice pudding was served unceremoniously in an aluminum tub. Who cares? It is creamy, rich, and delicious; and the rice itself is a revelation."
Michael Stern


Sigara Borek in the making: a mixture of feta cheese and parsley is tightly wrapped in a triangle of filo dough, then fried to a crisp.
"Sigara Borek in the making: a mixture of feta cheese and parsley is tightly wrapped in a triangle of filo dough, then fried to a crisp."
Michael Stern


You couldn't ask for a nicer couple of guys working in the tiny galley kitchen of the old restaurant. They're still on hand at the new location.
"You couldn't ask for a nicer couple of guys working in the tiny galley kitchen of the old restaurant. They're still on hand at the new location."
Michael Stern



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