Dawg House

1360 East St., New Britain, CT - (860) 224-2636

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Posted By Michael Stern on 11/24/2009 3:26:00 PM

A while ago I posted a photo album on Roadfood's Facebook page titled "Roadfood You Can't Eat Any More," featuring pictures of beloved restaurants that have gone out of business and some of the great dishes they served. One such place I did not include was Strand Lunch of New Britain, Connecticut. I never ate there, but its chili-topped hot dogs are a legend. Now, just off Route 9 in New Britain, the Dawg House serves what it claims is a replica of the long-gone Strand's famous wiener – split and grilled, topped with mustard, diced onions, and chili sauce.

How good is it? As I ate at one of the two indoor tables (there's also a counter and picnic tables outside), one gent approached the order window and announced to proprietor Robert Crago, "It's rare for me to think about a man before my woman, but I woke up this morning and thought of you – you dressing a couple of Strand dogs for my lunch."

The Strand dog is, for me, a perfect example of how magical a hot dog can be. The wiener itself is very good – taut and muscular but juicy enough and with a good crunch to its skin; and the chili sauce is intriguing: ground beef with a hot-pepper halo and a kaleidoscope of spice that probably echoes the ancestral recipes of Strand's original owners, who were Greek. The bun is soft and fresh. Onions are crisp. Mustard is yellow. In other words, no single ingredient is spectacularly good. But combined as the Dawg House does it, their harmony is transcendent. I ordered a Strand dog, a regular dog with mustard and relish, and a steamed cheeseburger. The latter two were quite alright, but next time, I simply am going to order two or three Strand dogs.

For the sake of Roadfood exploration, I also intend to try Dawg House's Frito pie and an item that combines steamed cheese with the chili sauce. I know for sure what I am going to be drinking: New Britain's own Avery's soda, sweetened with cane sugar.

Scorecard

Overall: One of the Best - Worth a Trip

Strand Dog	Fried Potatoes
Hot Dog	Avery's Soda
Steamed Cheeseburger

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"As its name suggests, the Dawg House specializes in wieners. But it is a central Connecticut diner and, honoring local food tradition, it also serves a fine steamed burger gobbed with steamed cheddar cheese."
Michael Stern

"Specialty of the house: a Strand dog. A sign above the order area reads, ''When You're in the Dawg House if you say 'with everything,' 'the works,' 'strand dog,' 'house specialty,' 'the best you have,' I hear 'hot dog with mustard and onions and Strand Lunch sauce.'' Although I grew up eating Chicago hot dogs and must confess that I still love them the most, this lovely weenie makes me proud to be a citizen of Connecticut."
Michael Stern

"When you order a hot dog at the counter, you also specify which condiments you want. This one has relish and yellow mustard. (Spicy mustard also is available.)"
Michael Stern

"I must confess that I never heard of locally-bottled Avery's soda. This one is root beer, and it is creamy-good."
Michael Stern

"For me, Dawg House dogs are too good to waste appetite on a side dish, but if you must, these superspiced fried potatoes with cheese and bacon fill the bill quite nicely."
Michael Stern

"The Dawg House is easily accessible from Route 9. Be advised that seating inside is extremely limited."
Michael Stern