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Stanziato's

35 Lake Avenue Extension, Danbury, CT - (203) 885-1057
Posted By Michael Stern on 9/4/2010 4:21:00 AM
Although I am a happy guy, my world view is pretty pessimistic. As I see them, culture, politics, society and the environment at large are getting worse, some things at precipitous speed. And while that is true about much of what we have the opportunity to eat (Dollar Meal, anyone?), the world of food offers a lot of conspicuous exceptions. Ice cream, potato chips, and the repertoire of cheeses all are much better than they used to be. And pizza -- soulless national chains notwithstanding -- has enjoyed a veritable renaissance.

Case in point: Stanziato's of Danbury, Connecticut. A fairly ordinary looking storefront on a drab commercial stretch of road, here is a place where the proprietor, Matt Stanczak, has set up a classic wood-fired oven and goes to the trouble to make individual pizzas with real character. I am lucky enough to live close enough that I have had the opportunity to sample white and red pies as well as wood-fired wings that are baked, not fried.

You can take a seat and relax in the dining room, but if you are a pizzaphile, it is hard to resist standing at the counter to watch Matt deftly assemble a pie and slide it into the oven. The temperature is hot enough that to watch it cook is like time-lapse cinema. Before your eyes, in less than two minutes, the collar puffs up and the cheese melts. Just before it is ready to be pulled from the oven, Matt lifts it towards the top of the dome, where the temperature is even hotter, insuring that the toppings are cooked to match the golden-brown crust. When done, Matt takes it from the oven, spritzes on a bit of olive oil and decorates it with fresh basil leaves. Magnifico!

For locavores, Stanziato's is especially noteworthy, especially in the summer, when vegetables all come from local organic farms.

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Scorecard

5 - Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Farm Egg White Pie
Baked Wings (12)
Bacon Pizza
Arugula Salad
Sopressata Pizza
Spinach Pizza
Sausage Pizza
'Shroom Pizza
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Reviewers Photos [Upload Your Photos]

A bacon-lover's pizza, with flavorful little tomatoes and pools of mozzarella.
"A bacon-lover's pizza, with flavorful little tomatoes and pools of mozzarella."
Michael Stern





Sopressata is the most expensive pizza on the menu, at $13.95. Matt Stanczak explained that the spicy salami, imported from Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, is what elevates the price. In concert with red onion, chile, and mozzarella atop Stanziato's magnificent crust, it is worth every penny.
"Sopressata is the most expensive pizza on the menu, at $13.95. Matt Stanczak explained that the spicy salami, imported from Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, is what elevates the price. In concert with red onion, chile, and mozzarella atop Stanziato's magnificent crust, it is worth every penny."
Michael Stern


An almost-ready sausage pizza basks in the heat of the wood fire. The oven has no door, so you can stand and watch the pizzas cook. At 750 degrees, it happens ultra-fast, and the transformation is a process I find mesmerizing.
"An almost-ready sausage pizza basks in the heat of the wood fire. The oven has no door, so you can stand and watch the pizzas cook. At 750 degrees, it happens ultra-fast, and the transformation is a process I find mesmerizing."
Michael Stern


A close view of the sopressata pizza reveals the spicy chilies that give it a wallop. Pizzaiolo Matt said he didn't think the peppers were all that hot. I did!
"A close view of the sopressata pizza reveals the spicy chilies that give it a wallop. Pizzaiolo Matt said he didn't think the peppers were all that hot. I did!"
Michael Stern


Just before the pizza is ready to be pulled from the oven, Matt Stanczak slides his long-handled peel underneath and holds it right above the fire, imparting a smoky perfume that adds tremendous aromatic appeal.
"Just before the pizza is ready to be pulled from the oven, Matt Stanczak slides his long-handled peel underneath and holds it right above the fire, imparting a smoky perfume that adds tremendous aromatic appeal."
Michael Stern


Oven-baked wings come with a stack of napkins and moist towelettes -- both essential -- as well as a big bowl full of blue cheese dressing. We found the dressing irrelevant and focused exclusively on the succulent, glowing-hot wings. There were no celery stalks or carrots that are traditional with Buffalo Wings and, in fact, their crunch might have been a welcome relief from the fire induced by the sauce that saturated the meat.
"Oven-baked wings come with a stack of napkins and moist towelettes -- both essential -- as well as a big bowl full of blue cheese dressing. We found the dressing irrelevant and focused exclusively on the succulent, glowing-hot wings. There were no celery stalks or carrots that are traditional with Buffalo Wings and, in fact, their crunch might have been a welcome relief from the fire induced by the sauce that saturated the meat."
Michael Stern


When Matt Stanczak found a supply of eggs from a local farm, he offered a white pie with an egg cracked on top. The flavor of the ultra-fresh egg, quickly cooked in the smoky, wood-fired oven, made this pizza one to remember.
"When Matt Stanczak found a supply of eggs from a local farm, he offered a white pie with an egg cracked on top. The flavor of the ultra-fresh egg, quickly cooked in the smoky, wood-fired oven, made this pizza one to remember."
Michael Stern


Drizzled with oil and decorated with fresh basil leaves, this red sausage pizza, hot off the oven floor, wants to be eaten!
"Drizzled with oil and decorated with fresh basil leaves, this red sausage pizza, hot off the oven floor, wants to be eaten!"
Michael Stern


A single drumette, dipped in dressing, will leave your fingers dripping with sauce.
"A single drumette, dipped in dressing, will leave your fingers dripping with sauce."
Michael Stern


It looks like a hundred other pizzerias in the area, but Stanziato's is a cut above.
"It looks like a hundred other pizzerias in the area, but Stanziato's is a cut above."
Michael Stern


A close view of the spinach pizza. Note the intermingling pools of goat cheese and mozzarella.
"A close view of the spinach pizza. Note the intermingling pools of goat cheese and mozzarella."
Michael Stern


The arugula salad is a refreshing hors d'oeuvre. It is brightened up with sweet little slices of grape.
"The arugula salad is a refreshing hors d'oeuvre. It is brightened up with sweet little slices of grape."
Michael Stern


Mushrooms and caramelized onions
"Mushrooms and caramelized onions"
Michael Stern



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