Evo

1075 Montague Ave., North Charleston, SC - (843) 225-1796

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Posted By Michael Stern on 8/11/2010 1:35:00 PM

If you doubt that we are in the midst of a pizza renaissance, get yourself to North Charleston, South Carolina, and dine at Evo. While the Palmetto State never has been known as source of great pizza, Lowcountry cooks are famously talented; and Evo – an acronym for Extra Virgin Oven – is proof that their creative juices combined with the best local products and a wood-fired oven can equal transcendent pizza.

But before we get to the pizza, may we detour to hors d'oeuvres? To a peak-of-summer panzanella salad, starring big chunks of megaflavored tomato and significant house-made croutons along with pickled red onion, crumbles of creamy blue cheese and basil, all dressed with bright balsamic vinaigrette: one of life's memorable salads. For a more simple starter, you can get something called an "olive plate." It is more than a plate. It is a big bowlful of black and green ones – many dozens – along with a bunch of whole garlic cloves that have been roasted until they are soft and sweet, the gorgeous cornucopia marinated in oil well perfumed by basil.

Now, about the pizza. Cooked briefly in a roaring wood-fired oven, it comes out with a crust that is thin and relatively lightweight – crunch more than chew – albeit sturdy enough not to wilt even under seas of melty cheese. Its edge bears the brand of a high-temperature bake in the form of a few char marks on the puffy parts. Toppings range from basic margherita to such wonders as pistachio pesto topped with mozzarella (made here twice daily) and just enough crème fraiche to elevate the eating experience into wanton indulgence. We enjoyed a special of locally made feta along with fresh okra and a puree of roasted garlic and corn as well as the awesome "pork trifecta" of house-made sausage, pepperoni and smoked bacon.

For dessert, it is hard not to indulge in a sampler of Sweeteeth brand chocolates (made by a former employee) that includes a salted caramel heart and a peach cobbler bon bon; but you must also reserve a significant amount of appetite for the amazing blueberry calzone – a pocket of pizza dough filled with dark chocolate melting around local blueberries and drizzled with South Carolina honey.

Scorecard

Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace

Panzanella Salad	Olive Plate
Feta & Okra Pizza (12")	Pistachio Pesto Pizza (12")
Sweet Teeth Chocolate Sampler	Blueberry Calzone

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Reviewers Photos [Upload Your Photos]

"Fusion cuisine: Italian (the hearth-baked crust), Greek (feta cheese) and African (okra). Plus puree of corn and roasted garlic, house-made mozzarella and parmigiano-reggiano. Most striking is the intense vegetable flavor of the al dente okra, which comes from a farm on Wadmalaw Island -- well paired with feta cheese."
Michael Stern

"Oh, the glory of a summer salad! This Panzanella combines big, flavorful croutons with boomingly delicious heirloom tomatoes, pickled red onion, locally-made blue cheese, basil and a balsamic vinaigrette. "
Michael Stern

"An everyday menu item, this creamy pie combines goat cheese and creme fraiche for sweet luxury. Add mozzarella, parmigiano and pistachio pesto and you have a sea of savor. Incredibly, the thin crust held up very well under all that."
Michael Stern

"At the back of the dining room near the oven, we found this line-up of beautiful, just picked tomatoes. We had some in our salad -- a good reminder of just how stunning a garden-fresh tomato can taste."
Michael Stern

"A single olive plate provides enough hors d'oeuvre olives for a table of four. Note the big, soft cloves of garlic that share space. Wow, this was good."
Michael Stern

"It is important to save room for dessert, even if you plan to split this mighty blueberry calzone, in which the berries share space with plenty of high-quality melting chocolate."
Michael Stern

"The company named Sweeteeth, known for world-class chocolates, is run by an ex employee of EVO. Here is a little dessert sampler. From the left: a salted caramel heart, balsamic vinegar reduction, dark caramel fudge and a South Carolina peach bonbon."
Michael Stern

"It is a challenge to choose from among all the good eats in and around Charleston. We suggest anyone put this place high on their hit list when visiting."
Michael Stern