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J.J.'s Coney Island

565 S. Main St., Fall River, MA - (508) 679-7944
Posted By Michael Stern on 8/31/2010 12:47:00 PM
Most hot dog joints, especially in southeastern New England, are places you likely wouldn't take your dear old grandmother. They are, let us be kind, rough around the edges. Not so J.J.'s. "We don't allow swearing," proprietor Albano Medeiros once told a reporter. "We want families to come here…. We wanted to offer a classier place." The large street corner restaurant is accoutered with comfortable booths and tables and even an espresso machine for leisurely sipping. There are no counter seats. And the menu extends beyond tube steak variations to include chourico pie, stuffed quohogs, chow mein, nachos and bacon-and-egg breakfast.

Chris Ayers and Amy Breisch, who zeroed in on this place, said that the first time they came they assumed they should get some gaggers (localese for Coney Island hot dogs), which are the featured attraction on the menu. But while waiting in line at the counter (service is tote-your-own), they noticed that a person in front of them got a chourico roll … and it was a beauty. Sure enough, this is no roll from Cheap-Eats Central. It is a lovely twisted pastry enveloping a great load of rugged, spicy sausage.

J.J.'s also is a prime source of the Fall River hot cheese sandwich, for which a hearty scoop of warm, hashed cheddar is retrieved from a steam table tureen (where, miraculously, it does not melt or clump) and put into a burger bun. Harmonized by a measure of the fine-grind, meaty sauce used on Coney Island hot dogs and a sprinkle of raw onion, the sharp cheese sings a vivid dairy melody.

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Scorecard

4 - Overall: One of the Best - Worth a Trip
Overall: One of the Best - Worth a Trip
Hot Cheese Sandwich
Coffee Milk
Chourico Roll
Cheeseburger
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I've always been a big fan of grilled cheese sandwiches, but Fall River's hot cheese was a new one on me. The cheese is sharp; its warmth and curiously soft grated texture are beguiling. Coney sauce, onions and a squirt of mustard are ideal complements.
"I've always been a big fan of grilled cheese sandwiches, but Fall River's hot cheese was a new one on me. The cheese is sharp; its warmth and curiously soft grated texture are beguiling. Coney sauce, onions and a squirt of mustard are ideal complements."
Michael Stern





Chourico is Portuguese-ancestored sausage that is immensely popular in this part of the south coast. It comes as links, disks, or as pictured here -- coarse hash wrapped in a chewy crust.
"Chourico is Portuguese-ancestored sausage that is immensely popular in this part of the south coast. It comes as links, disks, or as pictured here -- coarse hash wrapped in a chewy crust."
Michael Stern


I don't know if J.J.'s chourico rolls are made here or secured from a local bakery. Either way, they have a homey touch.
"I don't know if J.J.'s chourico rolls are made here or secured from a local bakery. Either way, they have a homey touch."
Michael Stern


The lady behind the counter at J.J.'s was thrilled to tell us all about the special house hamburgers, which are cooked, then stored in a pan of beefy juice along with onion petals. They make a fascinating sight, and apparently there are many customers who love them. I am not one. An acquired taste, perhaps?
"The lady behind the counter at J.J.'s was thrilled to tell us all about the special house hamburgers, which are cooked, then stored in a pan of beefy juice along with onion petals. They make a fascinating sight, and apparently there are many customers who love them. I am not one. An acquired taste, perhaps?"
Michael Stern


Here's one of those juice-sopped burgers topped with a big leaf of onion from the pan, mustard and J.J.'s excellent hot cheddar.
"Here's one of those juice-sopped burgers topped with a big leaf of onion from the pan, mustard and J.J.'s excellent hot cheddar. "
Michael Stern


J.J.'s used to be a more typical, down-and-dirty weenie joint, but when it moved a few hundred feet to this new corner location, it expanded its dining facilities and menu. It wasn't until I was editing the pictures that I noticed 'Meatballs' as an advertised specialty. There is a subject for further research!
"J.J.'s used to be a more typical, down-and-dirty weenie joint, but when it moved a few hundred feet to this new corner location, it expanded its dining facilities and menu. It wasn't until I was editing the pictures that I noticed 'Meatballs' as an advertised specialty. There is a subject for further research!"
Michael Stern


Coney Island hot dogs are small enough that a normal, healthy appetite will want four to make a meal. But even then, you might not be fully sated. So why not order five and get a sixth one free? That is guaranteed to satisfy. For couples less peckish or piggish, three apiece is practically a diet meal.
"Coney Island hot dogs are small enough that a normal, healthy appetite will want four to make a meal. But even then, you might not be fully sated. So why not order five and get a sixth one free? That is guaranteed to satisfy. For couples less peckish or piggish, three apiece is practically a diet meal."
Michael Stern



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