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Tucker's

1637 Vine St., Cincinnati, OH - (513) 721-7123
Posted By Michael Stern on 10/4/2010 2:41:00 PM
Tucker's opened for business in 1946 and while I have to believe that some things in the humble Over-the-Rhine hash house have changed since then, its ambience remains more mid-20th century than early 21st. Joe Tucker, who runs the place with his wife, Carla, grew up with it; and his 90-year-old mother is still a significant presence. The day I had breakfast, she was sitting in a back booth peeling potatoes that soon were to become delicious hash browns.

Along with the spuds and a sumptuously loaded vegetable omelet, I had a tile of goetta, the only-in-Cincinnati breakfast meat made from pork, beef, onions, pin oats and spice. Joe gets his goetta in the Findlay Market from Eckerlin's butcher shop, which consistently wins best-of-Cincy awards for its creamy-rich version of the old German dish. It is made as a loaf; Joe slices it thin and grills it a good long while (this is not fast food) until the outside is crunchy and glistening but the interior stays succulent. Goetta may have started as a thrifty, clean-the-kitchen dish; but Eckerlin's, as cooked by Joe Tucker, is aristocratic.

Other than goetta, there is nothing unique about the menu; but Cincinnati hash house aficionados agree that everything Tucker's does is a cut above. My omelet was scattered with eye-opening fresh snips of basil. Biscuits are from-scratch; cornbread is mid-South style, in the form of a pancake. French toast comes decorated with fresh fruit. This well-worn diner in a run-down neighborhood is a citadel of culinary hospitality.

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Scorecard

5 - Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Goetta
Veggie Omelet
Hash Browns
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Reviewers Photos [Upload Your Photos]

Great goetta. Procured at Eckerlin's Butcher Shop in the nearby Findlay Market, it is a luxurious loaf of piggy goodness. Joe Tucker slices it thin and fries it crisp, making it into eggs' best friend.
"Great goetta. Procured at Eckerlin's Butcher Shop in the nearby Findlay Market, it is a luxurious loaf of piggy goodness. Joe Tucker slices it thin and fries it crisp, making it into eggs' best friend."
Michael Stern





Joe Tucker's mother, age 90, sits at a back booth peeling potatoes for the restaurant's fine hash browns.
"Joe Tucker's mother, age 90, sits at a back booth peeling potatoes for the restaurant's fine hash browns."
Michael Stern


And here is Mrs. Tucker a few years ago, not too long after Tucker's opened for business.
"And here is Mrs. Tucker a few years ago, not too long after Tucker's opened for business."
Michael Stern


A close view of some superb hash browns.
"A close view of some superb hash browns."
Michael Stern


Here is half a vegetable omelet, plated with goetta and hash browns. The veggies, by the way, are fresh, as is the basil sprinkled about.
"Here is half a vegetable omelet, plated with goetta and hash browns. The veggies, by the way, are fresh, as is the basil sprinkled about."
Michael Stern


All are welcome at Tucker's, where neighborhood folk rub elbows with cops, politicians, locals and tourists.
"All are welcome at Tucker's, where neighborhood folk rub elbows with cops, politicians, locals and tourists."
Michael Stern


Tucker's is located in a part of Cincinnati known as Over-the-Rhine. It is a spectacular 19th century neighborhood, once gone to seed but now on its way back.
"Tucker's is located in a part of Cincinnati known as Over-the-Rhine. It is a spectacular 19th century neighborhood, once gone to seed but now on its way back."
Michael Stern


A love note / job application found on the check spindle near Tucker's cash register. For privacy's sake, I have obscured the phone number.
"A love note / job application found on the check spindle near Tucker's cash register. For privacy's sake, I have obscured the phone number."
Michael Stern



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