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Iggy's Doughboys

889 Oakland Beach Ave., Warwick, RI - (401) 737-9459
Posted By Michael Stern on 6/17/2002 11:13:00 AM
Iggy’s is a modern “eat in the rough” restaurant overlooking Narragansett Bay. Stand at a counter, place your order and pay for it, then wait for your number to be called … by which time you hope to have secured a table in the dining room to which you can tote your tray. Everything is presented in disposable containers – salads in plastic, chowder in a Styrofoam cup, stuffed clams in a cardboard boat, and doughboys in a brown paper bag – so that when you are finished eating, you can sweep everything from the table and dispose of it yourself.

The term “doughboy” after which this restaurant is named is unique to New England’s southern shores, but it is a food with cognates throughout the east and even way out west. A doughboy is a small square of puffy fried dough, served hot and rolled in granulated sugar. Sold by the dozen, doughboys are excellent sweet-bread companions for just about any meal. Elsewhere in New England, similar foodstuffs are known as flippers or cheats or (in Portuguese bakeries) malassadas; and they bear a remarkable resemblance to the scones of Utah and the sopaipillas of New Mexico. Iggy’s doughboys are so easy to eat that we suggest getting only a half dozen, lest you consume nothing but dough and thereby deprive yourself of appetite enough to eat the big, crusty clamcakes, red or white chowder, and good fried clams. We also suggest including in any meal a few stuffies – quohog clam shells piled with a luscious clam stuffing.

The beverage menu includes locally bottled white birch beer and sarsaparilla.

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Scorecard

5 - Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
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Reviewers Photos [Upload Your Photos]

Doughboys, like beignets, are served hot and spangled with sugar. And they can be equally addictive.
"Doughboys, like beignets, are served hot and spangled with sugar. And they can be equally addictive."
Michael Stern





An only-in-Rhode Island passion:  snail salad.  It's cool, garlicky, and refreshing.
"An only-in-Rhode Island passion: snail salad. It's cool, garlicky, and refreshing."
Michael Stern


Summertime, and the livin' is easy at the picnic tables outside of Iggy's.
"Summertime, and the livin' is easy at the picnic tables outside of Iggy's."
Michael Stern


Iggy's fried clams are a good balance of gooey marine succulence and crisp crunch.
"Iggy's fried clams are a good balance of gooey marine succulence and crisp crunch."
Michael Stern


Clam fritters are a balance of gentle fried dough and sweet clam flavor.
"Clam fritters are a balance of gentle fried dough and sweet clam flavor."
Michael Stern


You know you are in Rhode Island by the choice of chowders, the listing of fish and chips, and the prominence of clam cakes.  Snail salad is an off-the-menu daily special.
"You know you are in Rhode Island by the choice of chowders, the listing of fish and chips, and the prominence of clam cakes. Snail salad is an off-the-menu daily special."
Michael Stern



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