Bob's Drive-Inn

Highway 75 South, Le Mars, IA - (712) 546-5445

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Posted By Michael Stern on October 29, 2009 3:57 PM

On the subject of loosemeats, people from Arizona don’t know squat. Myles Kass, proprietor of Bob’s Drive-Inn, a Le Mars, Iowa, restaurant started by his father in 1949, tells about some Phoenicians who came through town a while ago to visit The Blue Bunny Ice Cream Factory and asked him for hamburgers. He was irate. “Can you imagine? I tried to convince them that if you come to this part of Iowa, you don’t want a hamburger; you want loosemeats. I honestly believe there isn’t anyone in town who hand-patties a burger any more.”

In case you are from Arizona or any one of the other 48 states where loosemeats is unheard of, know this: a loosemeats is a sandwich of ground beef that is cooked loose – unpattied – and served sauceless. Compared to a hamburger it has a higgledy-piggledy character, but there is nothing scattered about its satisfying taste. It is customarily dressed with pickle, mustard, and a slice of cheese; and like grits, it is a food spoken of with singular/plural ambivalence. Usually one sandwich is a loosemeats; a batch in the kitchen or a bowlful without the bun are loosemeats.

You will not find loosemeats on the menu that hangs above Bob’s order window. That is because it is listed by one of its several aliases, a tavern. At many restaurants that serve it, loosemeats is called something else: tavern, Big T, Charlie Boy, or Tastee. When Roseanne Arnold opened her Big Food Diner over in Eldon out Ottumwa way, journalists unfamiliar with Iowa cuisine made a fuss over the fact that her menu did list loosemeats, a name that to outsiders sounds vaguely taboo. According to Marcia Poole, food writer at the Sioux City Journal, folks in Siouxland were righteously angry about Roseanne calling it that. “The other side of Des Moines, it should be called a Maid-Rite,” Marcia told us, referring to the eponymous name for the similar sandwich and the Maid Rite Restaurants that serve it, mostly between Des Moines and Dubuque. “Loosemeats are ours alone.”

At Bob’s Drive-Inn, they don’t even offer a hamburger. If you want beef, you get loosemeats. Bob’s loosemeats are definitive. Browned, strained of fat, then pressure-cooked with sauce and spice, then drained again, this meat is moist, full-flavored and deeply satisfying. Each sandwich is made on a good-quality roll that Myles Kass secures from Le Mars’ own Vander Meer Bakery.

If you don’t want loosemeats, or if like us, need to sample every good hot dog that exists, you must get a couple of franks at this fine place. The hot dogs are ravishing natural-casing beauties with a real snap to their skin. They are made by Wimmer's, a vintage-1934 sausage maker in West Point, Nebraska, and they are some of America's greatest.

Root beer is house-made; and fruit shakes are made from real summer fruit.

Overall Rating

loosemeats

hot dog

Bob Dog

Tavern sandwich

milk shake

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Posted By Amy van Arkel on February 26, 2008 9:09 PM

My mother was born and raised in Le Mars, Iowa and I spent the first 18 summers of my life in Le Mars. It was the highlight of my vacation to go to Bob's Drive-Inn. Yes, I had a wonderful time visiting with family and friends but it was even better when we would go to Bob's. I live 1668.13 miles away from Bob's and I've never been able to find a hotdog or tavern, loosemeat, etc. that even comes close. I wish that they would ship their food. Yes, I know it's not realistic but I love this place so much that it would be worth it.

It's not the biggest place in Le Mars. It looks as though it has expanded since I was there last but it's not about the ambiance or the environment. With Bob's it's about the food!

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