Ben's Chili Bowl - Washington, DC

Posted By Michael Stern on October 14, 2009 11:35 PM

“First it was taxation without representation. Now, it’s taxation without Roadfood representation.” So wrote Rod Hendrix when he sent us a long list of places to help alleviate the dearth of Roadfood listings in the nation’s capital. None of his suggestions was more glowing with praise than that of Ben’s Chili Bowl, which Rod referred to as “Legendary … true D.C. history!”

Melissa Jordan, another tipster also highly recommended this landmark diner as a “tiny, family-run place with a wonderful story behind it.”

With a busy day of meetings and media events to spend in D.C., we prioritized our hit list and put Ben’s at the top, managing to stroll in early in the afternoon. There on the right was the griddle, lined up with ravishing hot dogs and half-smoke sausages, sizzling hot and ready to be bunned, dressed, and topped with chili. We ordered a chili dog and a chili smoke, as well as pieces of just-made sweet potato cake and chocolate cake. The man who took our order told us to find a seat, then shortly brought the food, the dogs each presented in a red plastic basket along with a pile of potato chips, the cake served in a see-through take-out box.

The half-smoke is sensational! A taut-skinned smoky link unique to the D.C. area, it is bigger than most hot dogs, well-browned on the griddle. It is firm-fleshed with an unbelievably luscious character. Frankly, next time we visit we are going to order one plain, just to focus on its smoky essence; but the fact is that the chili with which Ben’s customarily blankets it is sensational stuff: thick, peppery, full-flavored and positively addictive. The whole package – sausage, mustard and onions, and a heap of chili all piled into a tender bun – is extremely unwieldy, impossible to eat without lots of spillage; but that’s ok. Dripping and licking is part of the dining experience.

The big hot dog has plenty of character too. No bland tube steak here; it is hot and spicy and a fine balance for the chili. As for the sweet cakes, they are real home-style dessert: thick layered slices with plenty of frosting. We especially liked the sweet potato cake, which was moist and spicy.

As for Ben’s history, there’s a whole fact sheet on the counter to take and read (or the historical information is available at Ben’s web site). The basic story is that U Street was once known as Black Broadway for all the musical talent that used to perform in clubs along the way. Since its founding in 1958, Ben’s has survived the neighborhood’s ups and downs, and in 2001, its founders, Ben and Virginia Ali, were inducted into the Washington, D.C., Hall of Fame. (Mr. Ali passed away in October, 2009.) In the mid-1980s, actor Bill Cosby made Ben’s a cause célèbre when he held a national press conference on premises to celebrate his #1 rated television show. According to Ben’s literature, Mr. Cosby never stops in without eating three half-smokes. And since Barak Obama's inauguration as President, he also has been known to stop in for a snack.

Overall Rating

chili smoke

Half-smoke

Sweet Potato Pie

Sweet Potato Cake

Chili Cheese Fries

French Fries

Strawberry Cake

34 out of 34 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

No Yes

Posted By Glenn Dixon on November 6, 2011 6:25 AM

Simply put, Ben's is what it is and that's what makes it so great. It's unique, with tons of history.

Oh,and the half-smokes and chili are simply some of the best ever! A taxi ride over and back from the hotel, $25; a couple of chili half-smokes, fries, a soda, and a piece of sweet potato cake... we are talking $50 just for me, just for lunch. But I will do it each time I am in DC.

I will be back in February and I hope my schedule allows me to visit Ben's more than once. With this type of place you don't expect much, and you will be suprised each time you visit!

Overall Rating

chili smoke

Half-smoke

Sweet Potato Cake

French Fries

1 out of 1 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

No Yes

Posted By David Dawson on February 2, 2011 3:37 PM

I've lived within a mile of Ben's for almost 20 years and am still bewildered at the attention that the food at this place gets. I get that it's a historical place and I do love that as well but I've never had anything that's better than agreeable. Fries are, well, fine.

The most recent visits were to eat breakfast with a group of friends. We chose Ben's for its proximity to the metro, because it happens to be a convenient place to meet. I'd like it a lot more if it were clean, had some signature dishes besides the mediocre dogs and chili... maybe some locally made pies and cakes. There are many, many things to showcase but Ben's misses every chance. (The Florida Ave Grill, also given a great review by Michael Stern, is just two blocks away. Frankly, that's not something to rave about either. Very similar ambiance to Ben's.)

A note about the service which is very odd: you are likely to be waited upon by the same person who cooks your food and also acts as the cashier. Not a problem in my book but it does make the organization seem rather clunky. They don't go into a kitchen, mind you, it's all open-air as a diner.

I get that it's historical, especially the fact that it's one of a few places on U Street, along with Lee's Flowers, that survived the 1968 riots. You will see the mayor and celebs there. I'm enthusiastic that U Street has come back. Anyone would be glad that Ben's, Bohemian Caverns, the Lincoln Theater, etc., are still there from a golden era in DC that still has significance today. But the food at Ben's? It's fast, it's open for extended hours. But meh. Meh. Mediocre.

Overall Rating

2 out of 3 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

No Yes

Posted By David on September 14, 2010 6:26 AM

Ben's is an interesting place and worth a trip if you've never been there before but merely for the historical aspect and not the food. It's definitely looks like a roadfood gem but alas doesn't live up to the hype. The food is average (chili sauce was good) and the place is simply an overpriced and quite dirty. $4 for a chili dog?...are you serious. This is not Fenway Park ..is it? I was also dissapointed that they didn't have any sweet potato pie or cake. In fact, the young woman who took my order didn't even seem to know that they served it. They must (Stern posted the pic to prove it...and it looked so good). They could at least spend some of the 90% profit margin on a cleaning crew. As for the fries that the last person mentioned are the best in a 100 mile radius...that must have been the owner. The fries come directly from a frozen Sysco box. In fact, as far as I can tell nothing is really special about any of the food in this place. I'm not even sure if the chili is homemade?? If you go...go for the spectacle but definitely not the food.

Overall Rating

2 out of 2 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

No Yes

Posted By Cilla Reesman on January 28, 2005 10:49 PM

The existing review is great and accurate as far as it goes. But, you missed the fact that Ben's also makes the best French fries for hundreds of miles around. Ask them to do them a bit crisp and you will be in fry heaven. Heaps of fries will arrive in a red plastic "boat". Try some Old Bay Seasoning (a regional concoction used when boiling crabs) on them! They are golden and crunchy on the outside and moist inside. If you like your iced tea Southern Style, brewed with sugary syrup, Ben's version is a classic and the only type of iced tea available.

Although Ben Ali is retired, "Mrs. Ben" is in the shop nearly everyday. You will recognize her from the many family pictures on the walls. She is a fount of historical information on the area, and has made some of that history personally, so ask her to join your table and you are in for a real treat.

Finally, there is a supurb neighborhood walking tour boooklet that is usually available at Ben's. If they are out of it they can usually tell you where to find one nearby. As the neighborhood was once home to many jazz artists and clubs and also is near a very moving Civil War Memorial, you will be amply rewarded for an after lunch stroll.

The whole area is undergoing a glorious revival, but Ben's has stayed the course through think and thin. EVERYONE goes to Ben's and is treated like family.

Overall Rating

9 out of 10 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

No Yes