Fuller's Coffee Shop - Portland, OR

Posted By Michael Stern on May 20, 2008 7:32 AM

For the first time in a decade, we walked into Fuller’s Coffee Shop the other day … and saw a framed cover of our earlier guidebook, Eat Your Way Across the USA, hung on the wall. It was displayed there because Fuller’s used to be one of our favorite recommended restaurants in Portland, Oregon. But we left it out of Roadfood because it had been so long since we were there, we didn’t know if it was still forkworthy. We are delighted to report that it’s exactly the way it used to be.

As a matter of fact, a man sitting near us at one of the two U-shaped Formica counters mopped the last of some yolk off his plate with a forkful of pancake and declared that he used to eat at Fuller’s nearly every day thirty-two years ago, and as far as he could see, nothing’s changed but the prices.

“This is a diner where they know how to fry bacon!” the man declared. Yes, indeed. An order of bacon here is four medium-thick ribbons that are crisp but retain enough pliability so they don’t break at first bite. And the hash browns are a short-order delight, fried so they are a mix of golden crust and soft, spuddy shreds of buttery potato. The pancakes are good, too; and the cinnamon roll, baked fresh each day, is yeasty and tender.

Our favorite thing at Fuller’s is the bread. It’s not artisan bread; it’s not fancy at all. You get white or whole wheat. These slices are simple and perfect, especially so when toasted and buttered and accompanying a big, well-rounded breakfast. Jelly and marmalade are set out in ramekins along the counter.

Lunch consists of such blue plate specials as hot beef and gravy (on the good bread) with mashed potatoes and a corned beef sloppy Joe. There is always interesting seafood: salmon steaks in season, batter-dipped fish and chips, fresh-fried oysters, and big, slightly scary (but easy to eat) egg-battered, fried razor clams with French fries and cole slaw.

Off the tourist path but loved by locals, Fuller's is not only prime Portland; it is a taste of the sort of high-quality urban hash house now nearly vanished from most American cities.

Overall Rating

French Toast

Omelet

Cinnamon Roll

Pig In A Blanket

Hot Beef Sandwich

Marionberry Pie

Coffee

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Posted By Greg rutter on September 21, 2011 5:08 PM

Your classic greasy spoon diner. The staff is friendly, the food is filling, and the seating is charming.

Overall Rating

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Posted By Deborah Pastor on July 27, 2010 12:15 PM

At first, Fullers looked like a typical diner. Fantastic omelets, food served piping hot of the griddle, and waitresses who kept filling up my coffee cup. But how many typical diners have homemade whole wheat bread with homemade marionberry jam on the side? How about coffee that tastes as if it had just been brewed as opposed to sitting on the burner too long? I highly recommend Fuller's but keep in mind that this is a real diner not some retro "fusion" version of one. Everyone sits together at the countertop. I thought is was cosy and promoted great service, other people kept asking where the tables were.

I enjoyed the "famous" omelet with fresh vegetables, cheese and ham. Somehow, it was big but still light and perfectly cooked- a far cry from the greasy spoon eggs that make me queasy by the end of a meal. My partner liked his pancakes, especially with the marionberry jam. They were too large and fluffy for my taste.

I could tell that this is the type of place with great cinnamon buns and marionberry pie - but we were too full to find out.

Overall Rating

Coffee

Omelet

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