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Shortstop Deli
204 W. Seneca St.
,
Ithaca
,
NY
-
(607) 273-1030
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5
Posted By
Michael Stern
on
December 20, 2009 7:33 PM
"HOT TRUCK ROAD TRIP!" So ordained Roadfood team member Marc Bruno at 11:30pm on Saturday, July 5th after the wedding of Stephen and Kristin Rushmore. With Big Steve Rushmore, Cindy and Peter Kuchle, the parents of the bride, the bridesmades, a few other members of the wedding party, and, of course, the newly-minted couple, we piled into a van and headed for the Shortstop Deli.
Marc apologized to us non-Ithacans for the fact that the late-night-sandwiches we were about to experience were not going to be enjoyed at the actual Hot Truck itself, which shows up on the Cornell campus during the school year every evening at 10:30 during the week, 11:00 on weekends, and which is so popular that a one-hour wait for a sandwich isn’t unusual. We were going to the Shortstop Deli, downtown, where genuine Hot Truck sandwiches are available any time, all the time. While he assured us that the food is exactly the same, the experience of dining from a truck cannot be duplicated.
Still, the Shortstop Deli is a gas. More of a big convenience store than a sit-down eatery, it features shelves of snack foods, countless varieties of coffee, and a counter where you write your own order for what is here formally known as a Hot Truck Pizza Sub. There are no tables and chairs, just some concrete benches outside the front window where it is possible to bring your wrapped sandwich and your cup of soda (ten cents with a meal!) and dine al fresco.
The pizza subs are fantastic. Made on loaves of Ithaca Bakery French bread (the same loaf that supports a Pinesburger), they range from the basic PMP (Poor Man’s Pizza), which is nothing but bread, sauce, and cheese, to the extravaganza known as a Suicide (garlic, sauce, mushrooms, sausage, pepperoni, and mozzarella). Each one is piled with its ingredients, then baked open-face until the bread is shatteringly crisp, the cheese bubbles, and the meats sizzle.
These sandwiches, originally served by Bob Petrillose from Johnny’s Pizza Truck starting in 1960, have inspired a language all their own. For example, Marc told us that his usual order is a Triple Sui, Hot and Heavy, G and G. That translates as a full Suicide with three extra homemade meatballs, a sprinkle of red pepper, extra garlic, mayonnaise, and lettuce. (G and G = grease and garden, i.e. mayo & lettuce.) An Indy includes link sausage, pepperoni, onion, sauce, and cheese, hot and heavy. A Flaming Turkey Bone Includes chicken breast, tomato sauce, cheese, onions, extra hot and heavy, plus “spontaneous combustion” (double-X hot sauce).
Not only is there a whole dictionary of terms for ordering these sandwiches. Their source itself is so much a part of Ithaca’s culinary culture that the Cornell grad / Hot Truck regulars among our post-wedding party referred to the meal we ate not as “Pizza Subs” or “Hot Truck Sandwiches” but simply as “Hot Truck,” as in Let’s go get some Hot Truck or Did you enjoy your Hot Truck? When you think about it, that’s about the highest compliment a Roadfoodie can pay, to make the name of a restaurant into a proper noun for its cuisine.
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