Leona's - Chimayo, NM

Posted By Michael Stern on August 28, 2003 4:47 AM

Leona started selling her tortillas nearly thirty years ago from a roadside stand in the village of Chimayo. She has since grown to become a major tortilla producer whose products are sold in markets throughout the southwest, as well as via her website. The most unusual things in her repertoire are flavored tortillas – apple-cinnamon, garlic, chile, raspberry, pesto, etc. – but we like her whole wheat tortillas best. They are thick, full-flavored, and sturdy enough to wrap the messiest burrito securely enough to so you can pick it up with scarcely any spillage on your lap.

Despite her success as a wholesaler, Leona maintains a modest restaurant right next door to Chimayo’s famous Santuario, a 200-year-old church known for the healing powers of the dirt on its earthen floor. When you walk into Leona’s and step up to the counter, chances are good that Leona herself will take your order. This is great, because you can consult with her about what goes with what and how hot various dishes are.

Some are hot indeed: carne adovade is a blazing red heap of chile-marinated shredded pork that folds so nicely into one of her tortillas. The green chile and red chile stews will make your lips tingle. The chile relleno is not quite so alarming, perhaps because the mild melted cheese inside the pod balances its heat.

In addition to dishes well-known in tourist-oriented restaurants, Leona continues to prepare real New-Mex classics such as posole stew and menudo. The latter, made from tender honeycomb tripe and posole, is said to be a sure-fire hangover cure; and sure enough, Leona told us that she sells more of it on weekends. “Even to women!” she marveled.

Note: Leona's is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Overall Rating

Carne Adovada Burrito

Chili Relleno

Tamale

Chicherrones

10 out of 10 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

No Yes

Posted By Joan Keating on May 3, 2010 10:39 AM

My husband and I found Leona's in our search for the great LOW RIDERS of New Mexico. Car enthusiasts, we look for the typical ride in whatever state we visit. Roadfood is our bible, but I didn't have it with me in print or via blckberry. Someone pointed to the "famous" church, and next door was a great place for lunch. Leona's Tamales are an epiphany. I have been a Tamale hunter all my life, and these are extraordinary. Pork and Chile, Chicken and Chile, or just Cheese anyway she serves them, they are fantastic. Back in NY, I inquired about shipping them to Westchester for my birthday, but at about $100 with shipping for 2 dozen, I decided to find a replacement in the area... any thoughts roadfooders???

Overall Rating

Tamale

1 out of 1 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

No Yes

Posted By Shari Dyer on January 10, 2004 6:30 PM

Leona had to cut way down on her menu, due to her popularity! She told me she had lines every day that went out the door and well into the street. This was too much, and she is now recovering from an illness due to the stress.
She still makes outstanding tamales, however. They were the best I ever ate. It was a tasty chicken dish with plenty of subtle flavor in the meat. This is a place well worth visiting.

Overall Rating

0 out of 0 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

No Yes