Posted By
Dr Vigg on
October 29, 2011 11:18 PM
Tombstone Pierce, great-grandfather to Hawkeye Pierce of M*A*S*H fame, was fond of saying, "What's a drink without a nosh?" Surely the corollary is true, a nosh needs a drink. What could be more appropriate than a draft German beer? A draft German beer that isn't spoiled, that's what. Unfortunately, that's not what we were served. Our beers were spoiled, plain and simple. They were all sour, and apparently had bits of what is known as "rope" (biofilm from lactobacillus bacteria) distributed throughout. This was so bad, I cannot remember what the solid food was like.
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New York pushcart cuisine may seem like an oxymoronic phrase to those not from or familiar with the city, but indeed many of the small carts scattered on the streets provide some of the best eating in Manhattan. I’d heard of Hallo Berlin in the late eighties when I worked in lower Manhattan, but was never able to get there as my midtown pushcart-loving heart belonged to a gentle Russian named Misha who did something amazing with hot dogs outside the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
With the dawn of the Internet I was reminded of Hallo Berlin again and said to myself that I would visit the cart if the opportunity ever came. It did in September 2009 when I treated myself to a long weekend in the city to celebrate my birthday. Hallo Berlin is only set out on weekday afternoons until 3:30 p.m., and the second I arrived at my midtown hotel on Friday, dumped my luggage and saw that it was one p.m., I was out the door and on my way to the subway.
It’s easy to find the cart on the corner of 54th Street and Fifth Avenue—just look for the line. I took my place among German and Japanese tourists, construction workers and a couple of cops and amused myself reading the menu and signs. There was only one man working the cart—I found out later it was the proprietor’s brother Wolfgang—but no one complained or left as we inched closer to the smoky-smelling goodness.
I’d been considering the famous Freakin Deal, but when my turn came I asked for the Double Soul Food Special and added in a Saranac root beer. Wolfgang worked efficiently, slicing my sausages, dishing up potatoes and cabbage, adding a roll, wrapping everything in foil and handing me my bag with a smile and a soft “thank you.” I almost ran back to the subway, eager to return to my hotel and indulge.
The meal and drink cost me about ten dollars and it was worth every penny. The bratwurst is finely spiced and juicy and the “Berlin frank” is the best hot dog ever. The cabbage is a sweet but savory revelation and the potatoes are oniony and a little crusty. The roll is great tasting and also great for sopping up juices. It was a good thing I’d chosen to bring everything back to my hotel room because I was moaning with foodie ecstasy with every bite.
Sadly, proprietor Rolf Babiel passed away in October 2009, but Wolfgang is keeping the cart going much to the joy of Manhattan street food fans. If you visit Manhattan and want a street food experience par excellence, Hallo Berlin should be at the top of your list.
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Bratwurst Sandwich
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Double Soul Food Mix
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Freakin Deal
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A couple of years ago, a friend put me on to the Hallo Berlin wurst cart and I've loved it ever since. The Roadfood atmosphere, wonderfully accented by proprietor Rolf Babiel's personality and sense of humor, is an experience unlike any other in the city and one not to be missed. It is still parked at 54th and 5th Tuesday through Friday, from about 11am to 3pm, but it is best to call ahead as they don't always have the cart out.
On my most recent visit, I waited about 35 minutes and got to watch the man in action as he bantered with the eager wurstheads in line. The menu lists a staggering number of wurst choices and some delicious sides such as German potato salad and German fried potatoes. Two of their specials are the aptly named Joseph Stalin "Dictator" Special (they choose for you) and the Winston Churchill "Democracy" Special (you get to choose)!
Rolf and his co-worker were kind enough to pose for a picture when I asked. He said, "You want our picture? We are handsome men? OK!" After he cut my bratwurst I said, "Looks beautiful!", to which he replied with a smile, "I know!". If you order a drink, Rolf puts it in the bag and twists the bag around it, so as not to crush the food. He hands you the bag and has you pause, telling you to hold the bag around the can or bottle and saying that it is "German efficiency for you," with a smile of course!
The price of the "Freakin Deal" has gone up since the last Roadfood review. It's now $7.50, but still quite a freakin deal: two meatballs, a bratwurst (my choice), sauteed onions, and German potato salad with spicy mustard. This is one of the best meals I've ever had in the city. The crusty and very juicy brat has a nice snap. The meatballs are moist; the spicy mustard complements them well. The cool, vinegary potato salad and soft onions mix into everything making for one tasty mess of food. The roll is amazing! Upon tearing it open, the crusty exterior flakes off and reveals a soft, chewy interior perfect for soaking up the remaining sauces and bits. Wash it down with a cold Saranac Root Beer from Utica, NY and your meal is complete.
If you're in the city, I HIGHLY recommend checking this cart out. It's worth a special trip. Oh, there is a plaza one block south on 53rd Street between 5th and 6th Avenues, across from the American Folk Art Museum, where there are lots of places to sit. I usually go there to enjoy my "Freakin Deal," and to people watch.
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