Margon

136 W. 46th St., New York, NY - (212) 354-5013

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Posted By Michael Stern on April 22, 2004 8:30 PM

Margon is a hole in the wall around the corner from Times Square. Prices are criminally low and the Cuban food is classic. Plush, it is not. A ramp leads downward to a long, narrow space with four stools jammed up against an impossibly uncomfortable counter near the front; tables are lined up on the right of an aisle that leads to the back.

On the left of the aisle is a buffet counter where arriving customers stand and place orders. A lot of business is take-out -- people bringing lunch back to the office -- but if you plan to dine here, this is how it works: Walk to the back with your eyes looking left. This allows full view of what's to eat, including pork chops smothered in gravy, glistening roast chicken, rice & beans, sweet plantains, and octopus salad.

I went for lunch on Thursday with Gourmet editor James Rodewald who, like I, decided to forgo the day's special of tripe & pig feet in favor of a Cuban sandwich. The sandwich orders were conveyed via intercom to the front, where the sandwich presses are; and in the meanwhile, our extremely friendly waitress, who wanted -- but didn't want -- to be photographed, gave us octopus to carry to a table. The tender leaves of meat sparkled in their marinade, but after only a few forkfuls, the sandwiches arrived and commanded all our attention.

These are beautiful Cuban sandwiches, the crisp-toasted length of bread enveloping roast pork, salami, ham, melted cheese, a surfeit of pickle slices, mustard, and mayo. Somehow, James managed to keep his sandwich intact as he ate it. Ingredients slithered out of mine start to finish. It was a delicious mess!

On the way out, James insisted I stop for a shot of espresso. Since he was the one who led me to this excellent restaurant, I couldn't say no. He grinned wide as I slugged it down. A serious coffee aficionado, he delighted in introducing a newcomer to one of the most delicious cups in town.

I am eager to return to Margon for a hot meal -- perhaps chicken fricasee on a Monday, chicharron de pollo Tuesday, red snapper Wednesday, or ox tail Friday. I'd even like to try breakfast. Anything would taste great with Margon coffee.

Overall Rating

Espresso

Cuban Sandwich

Octopus Salad

Pork Chop

Roast Pork Sandwich

Mamey Shake

Plaintains

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