Jerry's Pizza

635 South Main St., Middletown, CT - (860) 346-5335

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Posted By Michael Stern on August 22, 2001 10:15 AM

Jerry's "white Sicilian" is a wonder of the pizza world. Baked in a square pan, it has a crust that is medium-thick, rising up in glistening, oil-gilded golden puffs around the edge. It's got a bit of crunch at its surface, and at the outermost edges, it is brittle; but in the center of the pie, it is a lush pillow of taut, yeasty bread. Atop it is spread a finely chopped melange of garlic, anchovies, and fresh parsley, plus a spritz of oil and a dust of Parmesan. That's all there is on a white Sicilian, and it is pizza pie paradise.

How well we remember the time we asked Jerry if he could make a white Sicilian with anchovies only on half to satisfy an anchovy-phobe among us. He answered simply, no, he could not make a white Sicilian any way other than the right way. Then when the pie came to the table he pointed to one quarter and explained that he had indeed tried to make part of it as we wanted, without the anchovies. Jerry Schiano is that kind of guy – a real sweetheart. However, we've got to warn you that the part without evidence of actual pulverized anchovies still had their distinctive salty smack. In fact, the whole shoebox-shaped restaurant smelled of anchovies and garlic once our pie emerged from the oven. And after eating it, we, too, smelled like a pizzeria (a great pizzeria) the rest of the day.

Jerry's makes other things: thin-crust pizzas, whole or by the slice; foot-and-a-half hot oven grinders (eggplant parmigiana is especially lovely); and plates of unstylish red-sauced spaghetti. But the white Sicilian is Jerry's triumph. Warning: It takes ninety minutes from the time it's begun -- Jerry has to let the crust rise slowly, he explains; so it is best to call ahead to place an order or plan some interesting activity while you wait … such as driving to O'Rourke's Diner or Ted’s and having a few cheeseburger hors d'oeuvre.

Overall Rating

The White Sicilian

Pepperoni & Meatball Pizza

Pizza Margherita (small)

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