John's Famous Stew - Indianapolis, IN

Posted By Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle on July 21, 2009 9:56 PM

A little-discussed feature of Indy cuisine is the frequency with which stew is encountered on local menus. This homely dish is found in taverns and sandwich shops often enough for one to assume the local folks have a particular fondness for the stuff. One great place to sample it is at John's Famous Stew, in the working-class section of Indy west of the river.

John's stews come in mild, medium, and hot, as do many of the stews around town. His stews are said to be made from a 19th-century recipe from the founders' Macedonian mother but, to our taste, other than the heat, they seemed like good ol' beef stew, a brimming bowl filled with huge clods of beef and large chunks of vegetables. We especially enjoyed the hot version, which will not scorch the mouth of any but the most chili-sensitive. On the side come slices of white bread.

All sorts of stew variations and exotica are made as well. A Hot Minced Pit adds hot peppers and butter beans to a bowl of hot stew. Stuffed Pepper Stew will get you a beef and rice-filled pepper at the bottom of your bowl before the stew is ladled over. Ask for a Tenderloin Supreme and you get the stew of your choice over a hand-breaded pork tenderloin (those tenderloins look very promising).

John's is a friendly tavern where you can down a mug or two of beer with your stew. All-in-all, a nice taste of old-time Indy.

Overall Rating

Hot Stew

Mild Stew

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Posted By Michael Stern on June 9, 2011 6:10 AM

It was my lucky day in Indianapolis. I arrived at John's Famous Stew mid-afternoon, when Pauline, who has been a waitress in this dark, adults-only tavern for a few score years, had some time to chat. She clued me in to the difference between stew and goulash (the latter has more vegetables) and warned me in no uncertain terms that I did NOT want the hottest of the three degrees of stew available.

"I like hot," I insisted.

Pauline shook her head pityingly, insisting mine be medium; but she advised her sister in the kitchen, Phoebe, to elevate the heat level a few notches.

"How do you do that? Add more hot sauce?" I inquired.

"I can't tell you that!" Pauline answered, taken aback by my nerve even in asking. Apparently the stew recipe goes back to the original John, who has long since passed away, and it is imparted only to cooks who can be trusted with it.

When she told me her name, she noted that it almost rhymed with Paula Dean, the TV chef. "I can outcook her any day," Pauline declared, noting that she is from the Smoky Mountains, where people really know how to cook. Pauline is especially peeved with the TV show because she believes that Paula makes her recipes look too easy when, in fact, she has assistants to do the grunt work that any home cook would have to do. Pauline spoke with authority about barbecue, fried chicken, and southern vegetables; and as I forked into my gigantic bowl of just-a-bit-hot comfort food, praising the big, lovely butter beans on top of the hugely meaty stew, she admitted that they normally do not appear on stew; they crown John's almost equally famous goulash.

Overall Rating

Hot Stew

Medium Stew

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Posted By Pete Runnels on June 10, 2011 8:35 AM

Well Michael, you're following in my footsteps this week. First Nick's, now John's. Did you have the blackberry cobbler? As we say in Indy, go for the stew! This is absolutely the very best stew I've ever had. I'm certain I've just echoed what thousands of others have said over their first bowl.

On a side note, I went for a tenderloin last week, being on a quest of sorts. It's as big as your head and pretty good, but not on the short list in my opinion.

Overall Rating

Mild Stew

Blackberry Cobbler

Medium Stew

Peach Cobbler

Giant Breaded Tenderloin

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Posted By Amanda Vore on October 10, 2010 9:57 PM

Love this place. Phoebe has been working there for over 30 years and will take very good care of you.

If you go here and don't get the stew, you are missing out. I usually get the medium, but it is a little on the spicy side. I have never tried the hot. You can also ask for a half-n-half they will mix the stews to give you an inbetween spice. The cobbler is great!

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