Craig's

Rt. 70, DeValls Bluff, AR - (501) 998-2616

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Posted By Michael Stern on August 23, 2004 3:28 AM

"Mild, medium, or hot?" you will be asked when you place an order at this roadside smoke house. Even the mild stuff packs a pleasant punch; medium is very spicy; hot is diabolical, enough to set your tongue aglow for hours. It was quite a sight to watch local boys in overalls come to Craig's for "extra hots" at lunch time, and quickly ingest two or three big sandwiches non-stop before hopping in their trucks and driving back to work. Not a one of the big fellers combusted from the heat.

This is superior Q; mild or hot, the lean slices of pork are irresistibly tasty even before their red-orange, peppery sauce is applied. The way most people seem to like it served at Craig's is in a bun as a sandwich, wrapped in wax paper and stuck together with a toothpick. Stuffed into the bun atop the pork is cool cole slaw, providing a truly sensational balance. And on the side, there are Ozark-style beans, silky and sweet, cosseted in a lovely amber emulsion.

Much of Craig's business is take-out, although a scattering of tables across the floor inside provides space for eating in. For dessert, drive to the other side of Route 70 and get a piece of Mary Thomas's pie. It is a sublime dénouement after one of Craig's climactic meals.