Noah's

113 Water St., Stonington, CT - (860) 535-3925

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Posted By Michael Stern on May 21, 2008 9:18 AM

Stonington is a beautiful oceanside town and it has several restaurants that offer a terrific view while dining. It also has Noah's, which is on the wrong side of the street for a water view. Still, if you are looking for a great town cafe with a menu of homey food, Noah's is the place to go. It isn’t the least bit fancy; it is more the sort of place where locals linger long after lunch, sipping coffee and chatting as the sun drops towards the west and infuses the dining room with a golden glow.

The way to start lunch is with south-coast Yankee chowder (that’s the steel-gray briney kind). You can have a salad from a menu arranged so you can design one just the way you like it; and meals start with a bread basket that contains flax-seed and cranberry nut bread. Pasta is unfailingly satisfying: fettucine is served in the simplest sauce of butter and cheese, or with good pesto. Main courses include steaks and lamb chops, but I recommend a big, impeccably fresh slab of halibut or grouper, or best of all, a dish of scallops, broiled to supreme tenderness in a breathtaking ginger marinade. For dessert, Jane and I like apple spice cake with warm caramel sauce, maple pecan pie, or that nursery-nice New England oddity, Grape-Nuts pudding.

My most recent visit was on Mother's Day, for brunch, when Noah's was crowded with locals and their parents or children. It was yet another difficult meal, for the menu listed way too many things to try them all. Among the temptations I did not get to sample were a lobster and fresh herb omelet and grilled swordfish with citrus herb butter; and while the last of the day's banana walnut muffins was sold just as I entered, I did manage to secure a slice of Noah's superb sour cream coffee cake -- a delicious balancing act of tangy sweet and sweet tang.

Note: dinner is about $25.

Overall Rating

ginger-broiled scallops

Sour Cream Coffee Cake

chowder

apple spice cake

Portuguese Eggs

Reuben Sandwich

Home Fries

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