Marcy's Diner

47 Oak St., Portland, ME - (207) 774-9713

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Posted By Michael Stern on March 27, 2005 4:55 AM

It isn't likely anyone would mistake Marcy's diner for a temple of haute cuisine. Decor in this 1930s-era hash house includes Harley-Davidson posters and pictures of the Three Stooges; the well-worn counter is occupied mostly by a blue-collar crowd drinking coffee from thick mugs and plowing into hearty plates of corned beef hash, pancakes, and chili cheese omelets.

There are all kinds of omelet choices, but it's that chili-cheese that won our hearts. Rib-sticking Yankee chili is blended with creamy melted cheese inside an envelope of egg that is thin as a crepe. Morning luxury!

Fried potatoes that come on the side of egg dishes are especially good. They are a mixture of crisp chunks scraped right off the griddle and pieces that are nearly as soft as mashed potatoes. "Sometimes our potatoes are from Canada," proprietor Joely Sparks explained. "But the Maine ones are best. We boil and cut them every day. And we cook them in a butter/margarine mix. No oil."

As is Portland custom, when you order an egg dish, the choice of toasts to go with it includes not only white, rye, and whole wheat, but also Italian toast. Buttered and grilled, it's a tender slice of comfort food. When we ordered our chili cheese omelet and hesitated about what kind of toast to have with it, the waitress explained to us, "You will be having Italian toast. I don't know why, but Italian toast goes with that. It's the only choice." In addition to good toast, Marcy's offers fresh-baked muffins every morning.

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