Colucci's Hilltop Market

Posted By Michael Stern on May 1, 2005 11:14 AM

Colucci's looks like any other corner grocery, its sign advertising, "Meats – Produce – Groceries – Lottery Tickets – Ice – Deli." Inside shelves are stocked with a duo-cultural array of groceries that includes Twinkies and imported olive oil. We love it for the big, gnarled blueberry muffins set out each morning on the counter in muffin tins, for succulent cheeseburgers made from just-ground beef, and for such démodé hot lunches as mac & cheese, beef-chili, and chop suey. And it just may be the best place in Portland to get a real Italian – the submarine sandwich unique to Maine.

As proprietor Dick Colucci expertly assembled an Italian for us behind the counter of his corner store, he told us that this place has been a sandwich source since the end of World War II. There are two kinds of Italians made here: a real Italian, which means salami and provolone topped with tomato and green pepper, pickles, onions, olives, and oil; and a regular Italian, which features ham and American cheese, as the sandwich was originally configured just over a century ago by local baker Giovanni Amato. Mr. Colucci told us that the big issue among Portlanders who make them is not lunch meat or seasoning, but bread. "A good, fresh roll is the key," he counseled. Indeed, unlike hero sandwiches of the Mid-Atlantic states, Portland's Italians are made on soft white loaves similar to the kind of bun that traditionally encloses a lobster roll … but about four times the size.

There is no place to eat inside Colucci's market; all meals and sandwiches are take-out. It has long been a summer custom among locals to visit Colucci's to pick up sandwiches for summer picnics and trips to the beach.

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Posted By Trevor McDonald on April 30, 2010 7:23 PM

Collucci's is a place I ave been to so many times that i can't count as i live around the corner. The food is great especially if youre looking for a quick take out and reheat item they have available. The problem with it is the staff. The management and ownership should be embarrased considering how long it takes their staff to make a sub. I've waited over 20 minutes for a chicken cesear wrap before, and then had to wait another 5 for the fries they forgot to start. The funniest thing is when i got home, it all fell apart like a 5 year old had made it. This isnt a isolated event either. Typically theres 4-5 people on behind their counters and 1-2 are working at half speed as they chat with the others. I actual;ly went again recently and had to remind them to once again not to forget to start the second item so i didnt have to wait another 10 minutes. The most classic thing is that Ive seen their employees get dumber as they work there longer. This new female in particular has slowed over time as she absorbs the retardedness of the others. I see this young kid maybe 15 if that and wonder if hes the manager. Itd make sense as ive yet to see him ever work and the others seem to follow in suit. There was once a week ago once female that had worked there for over 3 years she said. I complimented her oin how she was 4x faster than the rest and asked why. She commened she had been there 3 years and knew everything. I just think shes the only one that actually isnt just sucking the clock at a stoners pace. I have 50 people that work for me and would have cleaned house a long time ago. Meanwhile, I limited my visits to premade food if anything and am actually now looking for a better spot all together. Its a shame as the food is so good most of the time.

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Posted By Bill Brennan on May 2, 2006 10:08 PM

On the advice of friends and after reading the reviews, I sampled a "real Italian" recently and was disappointed. Sure, the servers were friendly and the place smelled enticing, but I came away with the same soggy excuse for an Italian sandwich that is offered by most of Maine's sandwich shops.

It's more of an antipasto served on a large fluffy hot dog bun. It is impossible to eat the thing without spilling most of the veggies and getting oil all over everything. If I wanted a salad, I would order a salad.

Mainers should send a delegation to southern New England, NYC, and NJ to experience a true Italian: crusty roll with a soft inside, fresh-sliced meats (salami, capicola, mortadella, prosciutto) with aged Italian cheeses, topped with a relish of hot peppers, onions, spices and high quality olive oil. No raw green peppers, canned black olives or insipid pickles! Yes, it is possible to eat such a creation without making a mess around, and on, you.

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