Hell's Kitchen

90 S. 9th St., Minneapolis, MN - (612) 332-4700

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Posted By Michael Stern on November 30, 2008 4:55 PM

Where, oh where can we begin? It cannot be with lunch, since we have never eaten lunch at Hell's Kitchen, although we sure would love to try the walleye BLT made with cornmeal-dusted filets and lemon tartar sauce instead of the homemade mayo the kitchen uses on its regular BLT. We also wouldn't mind lunching on the house Bread Bucket, which is all the chewy, freshly-made baguette you can eat served along with fantastic homemade marmalade, ginger-berry preserves, and the best peanut butter we have ever sampled, anywhere.

All of which is not to say that we didn't adore breakfast. For one thing, you get chef Mitch Omer's preserves and peanut butter with that, too; and for a few more things, the breakfast menu includes huevos rancheros of the gods – a huge plate of food that includes rosti potatoes along with spicy beans, eggs, cheeses, sour cream, and fresh salsa on a crisp flour tortilla. The potatoes are available as a dish unto themselves, and they are less like the Swiss spuds that are their namesake than they are glorified hash browns, the shreds of potato mixed with bacon, sweet onions, chives, and scallions and grilled in sweet cream butter. A few other breakfast specialties: lemon ricotta hotcakes, extra-spicy maple-glazed bison sausage, and a quarter-pound caramel pecan roll featuring extra-crunchy pieces of nut and a refined glaze that is a sweet tooth's dream.

Probably the most unusual and perhaps the most delicious dish on the breakfast menu is Mahnomin Porridge, a recipe that the promethean Mr. Omer came up with from reading accounts of native Cree Indian meals that featured wild rice. His version includes nuts and berries and is topped with maple syrup and cream. What an amazing hot cereal!

Rather than rave on, let us simply say that if you are in Minneapolis and want to wow your tastebuds, go to Hell's Kitchen. It is inspired and inspiring.

Overall Rating

Mahnomin Porridge

Caramel Pecan Roll

Huevos Rancheros

Peanut Butter

Toasted Sausage Bread

Rosti Potatoes

Grilled Pit Ham

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