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Wolfgang's

4 Park Ave., New York, NY - (212) 889-3369
Posted By Michael Stern on January 26, 2006 2:28 AM
$75 per person for lunch is not exactly typical Roadfood, but if your goal is to savor restaurants unique to their region, Wolfgang's steak house on Park Avenue in New York is essential. Opened by Wolfgang Wiener, former headwaiter at Peter Luger's in Brooklyn, this pricey place is an only-in-New York eating experience.

Peter Luger fans will recognize much of the menu: Porterhouse steaks for two or four people that arrive at the table already sliced, magnificent hash browns (here known as German potatoes), apple strudel for dessert. Wolfgang's menu is slightly broader than the Brooklyn antecedent. You can also get a sirloin or filet mignon, even swordfish or salmon, and a hot fudge sundae for dessert. But when we walked through the dining room to our table, we saw nothing but meat and potatoes on every table.

The place itself is striking. Like a mini Grand Central Oyster Bar, it has an elegant vaulted tile ceiling. Because the ceiling is low and tables are close together and the restaurant is frequented by extremely hearty carnivores who love to talk loud an laugh while they eat, the noise level is very high. We are not complaining. It is an extremely convivial environment in which to eat, drink, and be merry. On the other hand, Wolfgang's is the wrong destination for a romantic rendezvous, or even a focused business lunch.
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