Your Guide to Authentic Regional Eats
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Holy Hill Cafe
1525 Carmel Road
January 8, 2008 4:28 PM
We have never been to Holy Hill Cafe, which is the restaurant in the 130-year-old Monastery at the Holy Hill Shrine, nor have we had a meal there. But if the pie we sampled from the cafe bakery is any indication, this place belongs on the Roadfood must-eat list.
Thirty miles north of Milwaukee, the cafe is known for homemade soups, breads and muffins, wallet-friendly sandwiches and Sunday brunch. About a dozen pies are baked each day. The one we sampled, courtesy of Gino Salomone, producer of the Morning Show on Milwaukee's WKTI, is called fruits of the forest. It contains slices of sweet apple that are tender but not mushy and a scarlet mélange of spring rhubarb, raspberries, strawberries and blackberries. Great filling! However it's the crust that really wowed us. As Gino put his knife to the whole pie and pressed down, it audibly shattered. Crisp but not overly brittle, the pie's wavy top crust glistens with sugar and a few veins of the fruits' juice that have seeped up through the cracks and around the edge. The bottom crust remains flaky under its lode of fruit and adds a faint hint of cinnamon to the mix. In our never-ending quest to determine which state deserves the crown as King of America's pies, this one helps keep Wisconsin among the front-runners.
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