Your Guide to Authentic Regional Eats
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701 Atkinson St.
May 28, 2006 4:37 AM
Louis Hatchett brought us to Thomason's for bar-b-q beans, which are magnificent – rich and smoky, laced with shreds of meat and so vividly spiced that they taste like Kentucky Christmas – but the barbecue itself is fine, too.
Thomason's barbecues everything: pork, mutton, beef, spare ribs, baby back ribs, chicken, ham and turkey. You can get your choice of meat on a plate, which includes pickle, onion, bread and beans, on a tray, which includes only pickle, onion and bread, or in a sandwich. The pork is velvet-soft, moist and seductively smoky; mutton is sopped with gravy (known hereabouts as dip) and gentle-flavored. We'll have to return to sample the other choices.
A simple, free-standing eatery with an order counter and a scattering of tables, Thomason's does a big carry-out business, selling its specialties by the pound and gallon. On a shelf below the order counter are for-sale bottles of dip, which is a sauce with natural, au jus character.
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