River Edge Restaurant

283 S. Riverside Dr., Saukville, WI - (262) 284-9918

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Posted By Michael Stern on March 19, 2009 4:14 PM

We recommend River Edge Restaurant for breakfast north of Milwaukee because it opens at 4:30am(!), but with a few caveats. The donuts that look homemade on the cake pedestal just beyond the cash register may indeed be homemade, but they are not good: cold, heavy, bad-tasting. The butterflied grilled brat (short for bratwurst) served with eggs in the morning has a very nice taste, but it’s rugged-textured, and a dish we'd recommend only to those who enjoy a good chew in the morning.

On the other hand, the bacon is some of the best you’ll find in any roadside café: double-thick, smoky-flavored, and delicious. Riversedge pancakes are good; its potato pancakes are even better. They are ultra-thin and moist with crisp lacy edges. Hash brown potatoes served alongside eggs are cooked with ample grease and a good measure of sweet onions; and the house white bread, homemade and thick-sliced, makes terrific buttered toast.

A plain, rectangular café a few blocks off Route 33, River Edge is the type of place that attracts a steady clientele of truckers to its low counter, which is surrounded by chairs rather than stools. There is a scattering of Formica tables, too; but if you want to be where the action is and eavesdrop on the men in John Deere caps, the counter is the place to be.

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